how much did that cost you to make?  what was your list of parts?  I may have my dad make me one.

Ebay for the sheet.  $22 for 3/16" 9" x 9".  Probably could of used 1/8" thick but did  not want it to warp. $6.50 for shipping.
BoltDepot.com for the bolts and nuts, although you could buy them locally at a bolt shop.  About $12. 
Not a cheap mod but not bad. 
If you are not having any bottom rust (outside, that is), the firebrick is very effective.  About $12 for two of them 1/2 by 9 by 4.5.  Cheaper than the new deflector.
On the other hand, if you have no outside bottom rust and are happy with your pit, you would be wise to do nothing. I'm very OCD, so had to something.

I have the same issue with my GI - except that rust spot is twice as large. Not sure if the metal is thin enough to worry about it burning though - maybe just paint peeling off? In any case - will you be keeping the bricks or just use your own deflector? It looks good. I can't find 1/2" thick fire bricks - only 1.25" thick ones.

Found them on eBay. The work fine by themselves.  Used sanding blocks to clean off the rust and Rustoleum high temp paint as shown on my first note. With the bricks, temp is down in the 400*area so that alone should do it.  You might need 4 bricks to cover the area next to the fire pot, but well worth the cost.
I have used the new deflector, 3 times now and am satisfied, but admit the bricks are cheaper and reflect more heat. I sent Tim a follow-up just as an FYI.  Since he had already commented to my first note, he has not replied to the second one, (nor do I expect him to).  The new paint is looking good so far.   

https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-26-Insulating-Firebrick-9-x4-5-x-50-Morgan-Thermal-Ceramics-Fire-Brick-2600F/191417430846?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Thanks! I have not vacuumed around the pot for a while, so can't recall - would 1.25 " bricks work or would they be too tall? Home Depot has them locally  - same foot print but more than twice thicker?

Probably would work but I think that is too thick.  Don't know why I think that.  How about a pic of the bottom where it is rusted? 

It has been raining for couple days - will take a pic as soon as it dries up and post.

Here are the spots on the bottom of the GI - will try the high heat paint over the weekend.Mine are on the opposite side of the auger - towards exhaust.

Here are the spots on the bottom of the GI - will try the high heat paint over the weekend.Mine are on the opposite side of the auger - towards exhaust.

Same as where mine was.  I sanded it well with one of those sanding blocks, then wet wiped followed by dry wipe.  Let it sit and get well dried before I painted.  Put on a coat, waited 30 min. and put on the second coat. 
Let me know if you decide to modify.

I'm thinking that if this is a common problem, it would be worth collecting the data from our many Blaz'n owners and seeing how prevalent it is.  Then forwarding the info to  Tim at Blaz'n.  They might come up with a change of design to avoid it. They have too good a pit to let this pass.  Do we still have access to the list of Blaz'n owners that we had on PH?   

My final solution and mods now in place.  I decided to use the firebricks for both added protection and also to anchor the diffuser in the desired position.  So I drilled one hole in each brick after placing them up against the sides of the tunnel.  The brick positions are more toward the chimney side of the cooker as that appears to be where the most heat is directed.  The deflector is otherwise centered more evenly over the fire pot.  That is why only one hole in each brick was  needed.  Now the bottom will be much cooler and the deflector is better anchored (although not attached anywhere.) Please note the poor perspective makes the deflector look offset to the back (right side) of the pit, but it is actually centered front and back.  I'm done.  Will record some new temps with the next cook, but expect none higher than the 400's that were previously noted when I tested the bricks alone.  Also with recheck grill grate level temps as compared to the setting temp and adjust if necessary. I doubt if that has changed.   



 

Ran a temp scan today.  At 500* on the pit probe, my Maverick oven temp at the center of the grilling grates varied between 496-509, but stayed on 502 much of the time. So no reset of the temp probe required.  At that temp the temps on the under side, just forward to the fire pot (toward the chimney end) were in the 442 to 450 range, and seemed to be evenly distributed on either side, near the tunnel.  Auger side of tunnel was only 286* in the center (fresh air blowing inside).  I am very happy with these results, and will leave the mods in place.  It was fun to work this out.  I'll bet the paint stays on now.
 

 

 Excellent follow-up on a good modification. Thanks.

Great info. I ordered 4 firebricks to give greater coverage and preventive maintenance. Great info and pics.

So far no problems.  Plan to make this a permanent change.  Thanks for the input. 

So far no problems.  Plan to make this a permanent change.  Thanks for the input. 

I am looking to do this on a Grid Iron and was wondering how you decided on 9 x 9 for the ss plate.