Pellet Fan
Pit Talk -- Comments and Questions Regarding These Pellet Pits => Blaz'n Grills => Topic started by: okie smokie on February 27, 2018, 01:43:42 PM
-
While replacing the starter rod on my GS last month, I noted a rust spot adjacent to the cutout for the hot rod. Finally got a good day to sand and repaint it. Used Rustoleum High Heat Black. Here are the pre and post. Two coats and done. :clap: :clap:
(https://i.imgur.com/iHtpXTil.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9t0TIb4l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0Toy7Tel.jpg)
-
I really don't think that was an extra-hot spot. The hatch cover was not affected. Just a poor finish job to begin with.
-
I really don't think that was an extra-hot spot. The hatch cover was not affected. Just a poor finish job to begin with.
The hatch is protected by a Nomex mat on the inside.
-
I really don't think that was an extra-hot spot. The hatch cover was not affected. Just a poor finish job to begin with.
The hatch is protected by a Nomex mat on the inside.
True. Basing my comment on the fact that this appears to be the only spot of its kind. I've watched the fire pot and deflector before while on and the flame pattern seems to be uniform around the deflector. Will keep an eye on the bottom since the repair and check surface temps while on high heat cooks. If that area is much hotter, will consult with Tim at Blaz'n. Could be that the flame could be concentrated more in this area because of the shape of the deflector and/or it's support arms? But most likely it is due to a weak spot in the original finish. Will try to document soon.
-
Stand by. Will get back to this thread after completing my research.
-
Stand by. Will get back to this thread after completing my research.
Did a high heat burn yesterday. Results actually confirm that this area gets much hotter. So it is not a flaw in the powder coating. After I inspected the ash pattern around the deflector plate I determined that it was the deflector plate with its umbrella shape that is creating a downdraft on the flame pattern. For some reason it seems that there is uneven distribution of the flame and heat to the area involved. Not sure whether it is due to the umbrella shape (curved downward) or in part due to the strut pattern under it but that is the culprit. I wrote to Tim at Blaz'n and he that they had tested different patterns of deflectors and that this gave the best overall results for temp distribution etc. But that he would bring it up again.
My testing revealed that the temp reaches over 620* at the area involved on the bottom, while on the other adjacent areas it is much cooler, and is only 288 on the opposite end of the service plate, on the outside. Looking inside after cool down shows that the same area inside is devoid of ash in a pattern that matches the affect spot on the underside. See pics below: I plan to construct a flat deflector plate and recheck. Will go for SS, thick, and four SS bolts for legs. Not sure if square or round. Any advice appreciated.
(https://i.imgur.com/yTjya5Cl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/78WI8GKl.jpg)
-
I’ve noticed more acclamation of ash on one side of the pot. That would lead one to think the auger is spitting them out on that side, makes sense since it’s a screw. If that’s the case it would produce more heat in that zone.
-
I’ve noticed more acclamation of ash on one side of the pot. That would lead one to think the auger is spitting them out on that side, makes sense since it’s a screw. If that’s the case it would produce more heat in that zone.
The auger just dumps the pellets and they fall down to the bottom of the cup. It is possible that the airflow may be eccentric but whatever, it is consistently to the same area with every cook. I am going to buy a SS plate 3/16" thick and 9 x 9 " and use SS long bolts for legs and see if it works for this unit instead of the "umbrella". If I can distribute the heat uniformly without burning the bottom, I will be happy. 620* on the outside of the bottom is just too xxxx hot and not safe. When I get the mod made and ready, will get some picks and start testing. If Tim wants to advise another solution, I am open to that also.
-
I wonder if drilling small holes in the original deflector would help? It would allow some of the heat to escape upwards instead of all being deflected down and out. On my GS the coolest temps at grate level are in the center, temps get progressively hotter to outsides which range between10-15* hotter.
-
I wonder if drilling small holes in the original deflector would help? It would allow some of the heat to escape upwards instead of all being deflected down and out. On my GS the coolest temps at grate level are in the center, temps get progressively hotter to outsides which range between10-15* hotter.
It may be easier to remove it and replace with something else like it sounds like he is going to try. I have not paid too close attention to mine, but I can see what he is showing.
-
I wonder if drilling small holes in the original deflector would help? It would allow some of the heat to escape upwards instead of all being deflected down and out. On my GS the coolest temps at grate level are in the center, temps get progressively hotter to outsides which range between10-15* hotter.
It may be easier to remove it and replace with something else like it sounds like he is going to try. I have not paid too close attention to mine, but I can see what he is showing.
The original measures 8" round. The struts underneath channel the flame forward to some extent. I do not wish to deform or alter the original. I have two choices to pursue:
1. Leave original deflector and insert a baffle between the flame and the affected floor area. could use just a piece of sheet steel laid against the side of the tunnel on the floor. elevated by 1/4 inch air space (just use nuts as spacers). Probably the easiest thing to try and it would probably work fine. However, I don't really like the idea of deflecting heat downward onto the structures and tunnel. Seems like it would waste energy and accelerate decay.
2. Have ordered 9" square of 3/16" thick SS. Will mount 1 hex head SS bolt 5/16" and 6 inches long on each corner of the sheet and use it as a standard 4 legged deflector. This is about the height of the dome of the current deflector. (I first thought of using 3/8" bolts but decided that it would be overkill). Will then do test runs and adjust the position as I did with my old Traeger deflector to get the most even heat distribution. I suspect it will work fine. I will remember to plug the holes where the original deflector is mounted, so as not to lose air flow to the firepot. Will report after completed. Will take a while to get the stuff.
-
Could just get 2 fire bricks and lay on each side of fire pot.
Mudflap
-
I like Mudflaps idea. There are 1/2 thickness fire bricks that may work well..That or a shield lying on the bottom with an air space. Thinking ~ 3/8".
-
Could just get 2 fire bricks and lay on each side of fire pot.
Mudflap
May end up doing the fire bricks but will go ahead with the new mod since parts are ordered. One of my goals is to deflect the flame laterally instead of downward. But a good idea Mudflap. (similar to what I meant to do with sheet metal and spacers).
-
I would think the manufacturer would be interested in resolving the hot spot issue.. Most people never look under their pit and would end up with some heavy duty rust.... In a way it was a good thing to have your igniter fail.
-
Anyone want to buy a Grand Slam before it burns through on me. ;)
-
Anyone want to buy a Grand Slam before it burns through on me. ;)
Be patient, I think the problem will be easy to solve. Do you see the same problem on the underside of yours?
-
Anyone want to buy a Grand Slam before it burns through on me. ;)
Be patient, I think the problem will be easy to solve. Do you see the same problem on the underside of yours?
I have not looked. Mine is a 2012 model that I bought used about 18 months ago. It typically only gets used for chicken wings cooked in the 250-350 degree range.
-
I would think the manufacturer would be interested in resolving the hot spot issue.. Most people never look under their pit and would end up with some heavy duty rust.... In a way it was a good thing to have your igniter fail.
While Tim said that the current deflector was the best of all they tested, he did say he would bring the issue up in the next "meeting" they have. So they are informed. Will try the fire bricks out while waiting for my stainless stuff to arrive. Can get the bricks at local Ace.
:bbq:
-
I would think the manufacturer would be interested in resolving the hot spot issue.. Most people never look under their pit and would end up with some heavy duty rust.... In a way it was a good thing to have your igniter fail.
While Tim said that the current deflector was the best of all they tested, he did say he would bring the issue up in the next "meeting" they have. So they are informed. Will try the fire bricks out while waiting for my stainless stuff to arrive. Can get the bricks at local Ace.
:bbq:
Had to order firebricks. 4.5 x 9 x 0.5 inches. Found I could order as few as I needed. Ordered two. That should do it. Meanwhile, SS stuff is on the way.
-
Received the firebricks today. Have inserted them in the ideal positions and hope they stay put. Will fire it up and test temps on high tomorrow. See deployed bricks:
(https://i.imgur.com/5UbrEs6l.jpg)
-
any risk of moisture getting underneath them and causing any issues if used long term?
-
any risk of moisture getting underneath them and causing any issues if used long term?
They are not heavy, and I use the pit often enough that moisture is not likely. Meanwhile, the SS stuff has arrived, so I will get the 4 holes drilled in the next several days, and will have my new deflector ready to test next week. I did not plan to use the bricks long term anyhow, if the deflector works better for me. The main idea being to get the fire deflected laterally, instead of downward.
-
Cranked the GS up to 500* today for pork chops. With the fire bricks in the positions shown, the highest temp on the bottom was 418* in the area where it was over 620 without the bricks. That is certainly satisfactory, since the unit was set to 500* and was at that temp for 15 minutes before I tested. Certainly that would be satisfactory, but I still think it will be more efficient with the new deflector which will be completed tomorrow. For those of you who are not finding the overheated spot on the bottom, I would not be concerned. No sense in messing with a well designed and functional pit. We will see if the new deflector is more efficient with less heat loss thru the bottom of the pit. Meanwhile with the 1/2" thick firebrick, the pit heated up rapidly and worked well. More to follow. :bbq:
-
Good to know if I keep my grill.
-
I just got done with a 15hr cook and decided to clean it out for another overnighter tonight. I noticed nothing like your experiencing. I do leave the sear tray in place at all times, it has a 3/8, air gap that may or may not correct the problems you are experiencing.
-
Good to know if I keep my grill.
Look underneath and see if there is a rust spot of any kind (would be near the center , around the cover plate for the starter). I would be interested to know if my problem is unique or common. :help:
-
Got er dun today! Drilling 3/16 304SS is hard! Here is the finished product. Cranked the GS up to 500* and let it burn for 15-20 min. Highest temp in the same spot was 531* about 100 degrees cooler, (it was a warmer day today also), and that was the hottest it got. The grill worked perfectly otherwise. Have to remember that the hot spot is very close to the firepot above, so am not surprised that the temp on the adjacent bottom is very hot. BUT I'll take 100* cooler as a significant improvement. Gonna stay with the new deflector for now. I used 6" SS bolts which resulted in the deflector being 5.5" off the bottom. Perfect fit. :cool: :clap: :cool: :bbq:
(https://i.imgur.com/F85LQqsl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XOBjYySl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jzPxm2Sl.jpg)
-
how much did that cost you to make? what was your list of parts? I may have my dad make me one.
-
Sounds like the firebrick resulted in cooler temp than your new plate. I’ve had no issues with my G I but thinking the firebrick might be a good preventative measure...
-
how much did that cost you to make? what was your list of parts? I may have my dad make me one.
Ebay for the sheet. $22 for 3/16" 9" x 9". Probably could of used 1/8" thick but did not want it to warp. $6.50 for shipping.
BoltDepot.com for the bolts and nuts, although you could buy them locally at a bolt shop. About $12.
Not a cheap mod but not bad.
If you are not having any bottom rust (outside, that is), the firebrick is very effective. About $12 for two of them 1/2 by 9 by 4.5. Cheaper than the new deflector.
On the other hand, if you have no outside bottom rust and are happy with your pit, you would be wise to do nothing. I'm very OCD, so had to something. :2cents:
-
I have the same issue with my GI - except that rust spot is twice as large. Not sure if the metal is thin enough to worry about it burning though - maybe just paint peeling off? In any case - will you be keeping the bricks or just use your own deflector? It looks good. I can't find 1/2" thick fire bricks - only 1.25" thick ones.
-
Found them on eBay. The work fine by themselves. Used sanding blocks to clean off the rust and Rustoleum high temp paint as shown on my first note. With the bricks, temp is down in the 400*area so that alone should do it. You might need 4 bricks to cover the area next to the fire pot, but well worth the cost.
I have used the new deflector, 3 times now and am satisfied, but admit the bricks are cheaper and reflect more heat. I sent Tim a follow-up just as an FYI. Since he had already commented to my first note, he has not replied to the second one, (nor do I expect him to). The new paint is looking good so far. :bbq:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/K-26-Insulating-Firebrick-9-x4-5-x-50-Morgan-Thermal-Ceramics-Fire-Brick-2600F/191417430846?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
-
Thanks! I have not vacuumed around the pot for a while, so can't recall - would 1.25 " bricks work or would they be too tall? Home Depot has them locally - same foot print but more than twice thicker?
-
Probably would work but I think that is too thick. Don't know why I think that. How about a pic of the bottom where it is rusted?
-
It has been raining for couple days - will take a pic as soon as it dries up and post.
-
Here are the spots on the bottom of the GI - will try the high heat paint over the weekend.Mine are on the opposite side of the auger - towards exhaust.
-
Here are the spots on the bottom of the GI - will try the high heat paint over the weekend.Mine are on the opposite side of the auger - towards exhaust.
Same as where mine was. I sanded it well with one of those sanding blocks, then wet wiped followed by dry wipe. Let it sit and get well dried before I painted. Put on a coat, waited 30 min. and put on the second coat.
Let me know if you decide to modify.
-
I'm thinking that if this is a common problem, it would be worth collecting the data from our many Blaz'n owners and seeing how prevalent it is. Then forwarding the info to Tim at Blaz'n. They might come up with a change of design to avoid it. They have too good a pit to let this pass. Do we still have access to the list of Blaz'n owners that we had on PH?
-
My final solution and mods now in place. I decided to use the firebricks for both added protection and also to anchor the diffuser in the desired position. So I drilled one hole in each brick after placing them up against the sides of the tunnel. The brick positions are more toward the chimney side of the cooker as that appears to be where the most heat is directed. The deflector is otherwise centered more evenly over the fire pot. That is why only one hole in each brick was needed. Now the bottom will be much cooler and the deflector is better anchored (although not attached anywhere.) Please note the poor perspective makes the deflector look offset to the back (right side) of the pit, but it is actually centered front and back. I'm done. Will record some new temps with the next cook, but expect none higher than the 400's that were previously noted when I tested the bricks alone. Also with recheck grill grate level temps as compared to the setting temp and adjust if necessary. I doubt if that has changed.
(https://i.imgur.com/zsD7QOll.jpg)
-
Ran a temp scan today. At 500* on the pit probe, my Maverick oven temp at the center of the grilling grates varied between 496-509, but stayed on 502 much of the time. So no reset of the temp probe required. At that temp the temps on the under side, just forward to the fire pot (toward the chimney end) were in the 442 to 450 range, and seemed to be evenly distributed on either side, near the tunnel. Auger side of tunnel was only 286* in the center (fresh air blowing inside). I am very happy with these results, and will leave the mods in place. It was fun to work this out. I'll bet the paint stays on now.
-
Excellent follow-up on a good modification. Thanks.
-
Great info. I ordered 4 firebricks to give greater coverage and preventive maintenance. Great info and pics.
-
So far no problems. Plan to make this a permanent change. Thanks for the input. :bbq:
-
So far no problems. Plan to make this a permanent change. Thanks for the input. :bbq:
I am looking to do this on a Grid Iron and was wondering how you decided on 9 x 9 for the ss plate.
-
So far no problems. Plan to make this a permanent change. Thanks for the input. :bbq:
I am looking to do this on a Grid Iron and was wondering how you decided on 9 x 9 for the ss plate.
Just seemed like a good (guesstimated) choice. Worked out well. First thing I noted on observation with drip pan removed, was that the flames no longer arced downward from under the flat deflector. I had noted that the original domed deflector had arced flames downward and probably increased the heat on the bottom. Also the support arms of the dome, created a directional pattern, that increased heat distribution to the effected area. IMO. It all worked out well. I also wonder if I had just used the fire brick alone, that it would have resolved the issue as well. NOTE: If you remove the domed deflector and replace as I did, be sure to block the two holes in the auger housing so you don't lose air flow to the pot. Let me know if you proceed.