Pellet Fan
Pit Talk -- Comments and Questions Regarding These Pellet Pits => Blaz'n Grills => Topic started by: ArborAgent on September 24, 2017, 10:21:51 PM
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Hi folks,
One of the first things I had to do when I bought my Blaz'n Grand Slam was to calibrate it. I figure I'd share how to do this. These instructions should work with any Roanoke Controls controller.
Step 0.
Call Blaz'n at 1-855-634-9233 and have them walk you through it.
What's that? You insist on doing it by yourself? Fine. I'll walk you through it. BUT, you're on your own. If these instructions don't work for you or you break something, that's on you. Call Blaz'n have them laugh at you and ask them to bail you out.
Step 1.
Pick your favorite ambient temp (225º for me) and use a trusty thermometer to figure out how off you are. I'm using a Fireboard. Let the pit get to a steady state at the temp you want. In my case, I'm waiting until the grill hasn't moved much for half an hour. Put the thermometer in the center of the grate you use the most. In my case it's the main grate. I haven't noticed much difference with the first pro shelf, if you normally use a higher grate you might want to calibrate there.
Step 2.
Figure out the how far off your grill is. In my example, this is about 208º vs 225º intended.
Step 3.
Let's do some math. The way the calibration works is that the grill allows you to set a gain multiplier to the temperature read by the probe in the grill (let's call this the correction factor). So in the case of this example, we need to figure out what the correction factor needs to be. Remember your high school algebra?
225º = 208º * x
225º/208º = x
1.0817 = x
Multiply by a thousand (1,000) and you get:
1.0817 * 1000 = 1082
1082 is the correction factor. Save that number, you're going to need to plug it into the grill.
The grill accepts a value between 900 and 3,000.
Step 4.
Now we need to program the controller.
- Press and hold the Pellet Prime and Probe Display for 3 seconds. The display will change to C-1
- Use the temp up and down keys to move to C-13
- Change the value by using the Probe Display (increase) and Temp Display (decrease) buttons. In this example, the new setting would be 1082
- Press the On button to save the value and go back to the menu.
- To exit the config menu, press the Pellet Prime button.
Boom, you're done!
Wait!! I screwed something up and I'm freaking out
Changed the wrong setting? Change a value you didn't mean to? Just not happy with what we've done? No problem. You can go back to the factory defaults.
Press and hold the Pellet Prime and Temp Display buttons for 3 seconds. The screen will say bye.
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Wow!
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Wow!
I figure I'd help your new site with a quality post. I think every Blaz'n owner should know how to do this.
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Where do you place your trusty thermometer?
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Where do you place your trusty thermometer?
Good point! I'll update. I put it in the center of the main grate. That's where the brisket goes.
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To add on to the placement question, by main grate, you are not talking about the pro shelves?
edit: i was reading the cached old site about this discussion and see that you say the temp between the main grate and the bottom shelf of the pro grates are close to temp.
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Calibrate to the center of the shelf you use most.
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Did this a couple of months ago with excellent results. My temps now stay within 1 or 2 points of actual!!! However, I have some possible errors in your advice and also have a couple of suggestions:
In step 4. After you change to the C-13 setting -- hit the On/Off button once to obtain the current setting. Now the default factory setting is usually 1000. If you are actually 208* and the set temp is 225*, then IF you find the default C-13 number is 1000, then you would have to lower the C-13 setting to get the temp higher. Your math suggests the opposite. I would say that you need to divide CURRENT temp by the SET temp to get the desired setting.
208/225= 0.92444. Times 1000 would be 924 as your new setting. Makes sense since you have to lower the setting to raise the temp. NOW as an example: My desired temp of 350* was actually 380*. Sure enough my default setting at C-13 was 1000 (as I was told it might be). So dividing 380/350= 1.086 x 1000 or a setting of 1086. However, that was not the final adjusted C-13 setting. I had to tweek it a couple of times (yes is took a couple of hours to complete) and my final setting was 1066. And that was just 1* off the set temp. It has stayed right on ever since. Even at other temp settings it very close.
Hope this is not confusing. Remember, Tim is the best way to go, especially if you are still under warranty.
:2cents:
Suggestions:
My other suggestions are to Preheat the to the desired temp and let it set at that temp for 30 minutes before adjusting. Then if after you have set the desired setting, let it burn for another 30 minutes. If the set temp and actual temp do not equal up, then tweek it by going back into setting C-13 again and raising or lowering the setting as needed. It may take two or three adjustments to get real accurate. And remember raising the setting lowers the temp and lowering the setting raises the temp. It really works! :2cents:
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Interesting, but this is why I put a temp probe at grate level when I cook. I just adjust the controller until it gets to the grate temp on my external thermometer that I want to cook at. I have a used Blaz'n with a controller that has a LED that you can't read anymore. My method works fine for me without spending more than I paid for the grill to get another controller. I don't have an igniter rod either. Start it up the old fashion way by getting a good fire going in the firepot and then turning on the grill once it is good and raging. Then the fan won't blow out the fire.
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Interesting, but this is why I put a temp probe at grate level when I cook. I just adjust the controller until it gets to the grate temp on my external thermometer that I want to cook at. I have a used Blaz'n with a controller that has a LED that you can't read anymore. My method works fine for me without spending more than I paid for the grill to get another controller. I don't even have an igniter rod either. Start it up the old fashion way be getting a good fire going in the firepot and then turning on the grill once it is good and raging. Then the fan won't blow out the fire.
As they say, "there's more than one way to--". I guess I should have apologized to Arbor Agent for contradicting his tech report, but I have actually done this and the method is simple and works great. I was tutored by another Pellethead on the old site.
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Great info but what are you using for a trusty thermometer to assure you get accurate results? I've found some trusty thermometers to be not so trusty...
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Great info but what are you using for a trusty thermometer to assure you get accurate results? I've found some trusty thermometers to be not so trusty...
I use a Maverick OT-03BBQ which has a clip that holds the sensor about 1 inch above the grates and I place it in the center. It is a bit slower to react than the pit probe but seems to be very reliable. I have tested it in boiling water when it was new, and it was near perfect. I keep the probe tip clean.
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Interesting, but this is why I put a temp probe at grate level when I cook. I just adjust the controller until it gets to the grate temp on my external thermometer that I want to cook at. I have a used Blaz'n with a controller that has a LED that you can't read anymore. My method works fine for me without spending more than I paid for the grill to get another controller. I don't have an igniter rod either. Start it up the old fashion way by getting a good fire going in the firepot and then turning on the grill once it is good and raging. Then the fan won't blow out the fire.
Why can't you read the LED on your Blaz'n? Dirt and pellet powder got behind my LED cover screen and began to obscure the LED. It can be cleaned. When I sent it in to Tim to get the new "shut-off" algorithm installed, they cleaned it. The turn around time was 3-4 days. Now it is clearly visible. You might be able to do it yourself. Just FYI
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Interesting, but this is why I put a temp probe at grate level when I cook. I just adjust the controller until it gets to the grate temp on my external thermometer that I want to cook at. I have a used Blaz'n with a controller that has a LED that you can't read anymore. My method works fine for me without spending more than I paid for the grill to get another controller. I don't have an igniter rod either. Start it up the old fashion way by getting a good fire going in the firepot and then turning on the grill once it is good and raging. Then the fan won't blow out the fire.
Why can't you read the LED on your Blaz'n? Dirt and pellet powder got behind my LED cover screen and began to obscure the LED. It can be cleaned. When I sent it in to Tim to get the new "shut-off" algorithm installed, they cleaned it. The turn around time was 3-4 days. Now it is clearly visible. You might be able to do it yourself. Just FYI
It was that way when I bought it used. I only use the grill to make chicken wings as I use my other smokers for everything else. I don't really need the LED to work as it never matches grill grate temp anyway. I used an remote thermometer with grill grate probe and set the controller to match what I want the grill great temps to be. I have no plans to put any time, money, or effort into anything on the grill. It may go to the curb the day the controller dies. Thanks for the information though. Who knows, it may come in handy one day.
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Does anyone have a list of the C-Settings that they can share. I believe it was posted on pelletheads, but no longer active.
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I measured mine in multiple spots and it was dead on from the get go. This is good to know though.
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I measured mine in multiple spots and it was dead on from the get go. This is good to know though.
Nice not to have to change it. But nice also to know how to if needed.
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Did this a couple of months ago with excellent results. My temps now stay within 1 or 2 points of actual!!! However, I have some possible errors in your advice and also have a couple of suggestions:
In step 4. After you change to the C-13 setting -- hit the On/Off button once to obtain the current setting. Now the default factory setting is usually 1000. If you are actually 208* and the set temp is 225*, then IF you find the default C-13 number is 1000, then you would have to lower the C-13 setting to get the temp higher. Your math suggests the opposite. I would say that you need to divide CURRENT temp by the SET temp to get the desired setting.
208/225= 0.92444. Times 1000 would be 924 as your new setting. Makes sense since you have to lower the setting to raise the temp. NOW as an example: My desired temp of 350* was actually 380*. Sure enough my default setting at C-13 was 1000 (as I was told it might be). So dividing 380/350= 1.086 x 1000 or a setting of 1086. However, that was not the final adjusted C-13 setting. I had to tweek it a couple of times (yes is took a couple of hours to complete) and my final setting was 1066. And that was just 1* off the set temp. It has stayed right on ever since. Even at other temp settings it very close.
Hope this is not confusing. Remember, Tim is the best way to go, especially if you are still under warranty.
Love that this was posted but I can concur on the math. Actual temp/set temp. I only say this based on being talked through it by Tim. I was running way off....ended up getting a new controller. However to start he had me change c-13... I was set at 250 and the actual Temp was 280. Temp runaway mid cook. Based on what Tim said you raise the setting if you are running hot and lower if colder. Tim had me try a setting of 1100 in this situation which would go 280/250. Again though, it's not exact. Got my new controller and wasn't very far off but still played with it. I found that it also can vary whether you are running at a higher temp or a lower. In the end got it close and rely on my Thermoworks smoke to tell me true temp and adjust according to that. In the end though it's just an OCD thing right? A few degrees is not going to make a difference. Unless maybe you are making snack sticks where 10 - 20 degrees too hot will make a difference.
Also he told me factory defaults for the controller are for the Grand Slam. I accidentally set to default and called him. I was in luck since that's what I have. I think there are some auger settings that might be different for the Grid Iron.....don't know for sure.
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My Rec Tec also uses a Roanoke temperature controller and its default for parameter C-13 is 1200. I'm trying to remember if the controller reads high or low compared with my Thermoworks Smoke. If I remember correctly, the Rec Tec's controller might read a little high. I'll have to keep an eye on it during the next cook.
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Does anyone have a list of the C-Settings that they can share. I believe it was posted on pelletheads, but no longer active.
Sadly I had this information on PH but it is long gone. I'll check my old emails and see if I still have it somewhere.
On a different note...
Does anyone who is using the Blaz'n/Roanoke controller know the specs on the RTD/temp probe? I am using a Blaz'n controller on my Cookshack FEC-100 as it originally came with an analog Traeger controller. My problem is that the temp probe temp probe that it came with the controller is long like what is used in a Traeger, while FEC's used the shorter style. Does anyone know if they make a short RTD that will work wioth the blaz'n/Roanoke controllers?
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Does anyone have a list of the C-Settings that they can share. I believe it was posted on pelletheads, but no longer active.
Sadly I had this information on PH but it is long gone. I'll check my old emails and see if I still have it somewhere.
A forum member posted the C Settings yesterday in the Rec Tec forum.
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Does anyone have a list of the C-Settings that they can share. I believe it was posted on pelletheads, but no longer active.
Sadly I had this information on PH but it is long gone. I'll check my old emails and see if I still have it somewhere.
A forum member posted the C Settings yesterday in the Rec Tec forum.
https://pelletfan.com/index.php?topic=937.0
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I spent some time yesterday using the smoke unit to calibrate. I'm now within 3 degrees vs 30. Thanks for this great information...
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I spent some time yesterday using the smoke unit to calibrate. I'm now within 3 degrees vs 30. Thanks for this great information...
Nice to know there are some things we still have control over! Good job. My GS just gets better. :bbq:
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Avery at Roanoke Controls provided this spec to me when I was searching for replacement probe for my Grand Slam. Gave up searching for one so I got a replacement from Blaz'n.
1K Platinum RTD and requires a 3.5 mm plug.
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Just had a look at my Memphis probe - It is; 1K(1,000 ohms), 3.5mm plug, just under 1/4" dia cable and built like a tank..Not sure of the price as it came with the pit.