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  • #46 by cookingjnj on 02 Feb 2018
  • I am with lamrith and ross, clean out of the 680 has never been an issue for me.  I considered the fire pot dump as a nice idea when I was painfully trying to decide which pit to get.  At the end of the day, I found you have to take the drip pan out regularly to clean it or change the foil (I actually foil mine), and since you need to take the grates out to get to the drip pan, the only thing left is the heat deflector.  Since all of those parts are coming out anyway, not a big deal to take out the heat deflector and vacuum everything.  Only takes a minute if not less.  I am very happy with the decision I made getting the 680, and it has done everything I have asked of it..... mostly to make me look like a better cook...hahaha. 
  • #47 by Soldier17 on 02 Feb 2018
  • I am with lamrith and ross, clean out of the 680 has never been an issue for me.  I considered the fire pot dump as a nice idea when I was painfully trying to decide which pit to get.  At the end of the day, I found you have to take the drip pan out regularly to clean it or change the foil (I actually foil mine), and since you need to take the grates out to get to the drip pan, the only thing left is the heat deflector.  Since all of those parts are coming out anyway, not a big deal to take out the heat deflector and vacuum everything.  Only takes a minute if not less.  I am very happy with the decision I made getting the 680, and it has done everything I have asked of it..... mostly to make me look like a better cook...hahaha.

    Exactly. I clean the grates regularly, as well as the drip pan. Since I already have those removed I just get the shop vac out and clean out the ash. I feel like a removable fire pot is just one more moving part that could lead to part failure.
  • #48 by Ross77 on 02 Feb 2018
  • I do wish they would have done away with the interior light. That is one feature I’ve found pretty worthless. Unless there is a secret to keeping the glass clean?
  • #49 by lamrith on 02 Feb 2018
  • You have to take everything apart to clean out all the ash in the bottom regardless though.  I clean mine every 5 cooks or so.  There is never very much ash in the fire pot.  Plenty of ash around the fire pot though which is why the removable fire pot wasn't a dealbreaker for me.

    I overanalyzed a lot.  It's a big purchase.  After using the 680 for over a year I don't see the need for a removable fire pot.  Whenever I clean mine out there doesn't seem to be much ash inside.  I think the fan blows most of it out during the cool down cycle. 

    Are you referring to the controller screen?  It looks similar to the Memphis screen.  I don't think it will be an issue.

    I agree, I don't really have any ash in the fire pot itself, but rather in the bottom of the grill. Nothing a shop vac can't handle.
    Same here.  Honestly it does such a good job emptying the pot that is never has much more than a trace of ash.  I have found I can go much longer between clean-outs on my 680 than I could my previous grill because there is no concern with it not lighting due to ash over the ignitor.  I recall one clean-out I had over an inch of ash covering the entire belly of the grill, but the pot was basically empty.

    Wow, I always heard you had to clean the fire pot out after every cook.  It sounds like they need to add a door across the whole bottom of the pits so you can open them and dump the ash.  This would be so much easier than pulling it apart and then vacuuming.
    Yeah not sure how that could be accomplished as it does spread out all over the entire belly of the grill so entire bottom would have to open, then it goes everywhere?  I love the idea though, just no idea how it could work.

    I SHOULD clean mine more often, it is not that hard to pull 2 grates and the drip tray to clean it out takes 2 minutes, but I am just lazy and do not want to take it apart.
    :rotf:

    As to the light I LOVE it and use mine literally every cook (dinner time here is dark 6mos of the year).
    Cleaning is not too bad.  Every 5 cooks or so I throw mine in a bowl of hot soapy water and let it soak for a bit then hit it with a scotchbright for a min or two and it is good to go.  I usually do this as the grill is warming up for a cook if I motice it is really dim.  I actually burned the bulb out on mine I use it so much and had to buy a replacement.
  • #50 by lyork on 02 Feb 2018

  • Open flame is great.  BUT, it can also be a huge hassle if you do mostly low n slow and only occasionally do hot grilling.  Grease fires can be substantial.  I had a DC that had been used for low n slow mostly.  1st time I went hot for grilling it was a blowtorch because all that low n slow drippings was everywhere and once it was hot and flame hit it, woooooff...  If you hot grill all the time it is not an issue as it is constantly burned off in smaller doses.  Just something to keep in mind regardless of brand you go with.

    If you want to do searing I can fully recommend the bullseye as a good wood pellet searing station with direct flame to compliment any pellet grill you choose.  I love my 680, but if I lost everything and had to buy again today I would probably go stampede and bullseye.  The stampede is better sized for my low n slow needs and the bullseye is a phenominal griller.  Rectec also porcelin coated the bullseye and tested the it with fires.  The unit is made to take those flareups if you have them, though being hot all the time it is rare.

    Is the bullseye gonna be a better griller than the stampede? Seems like the smaller one get hotter
  • #51 by lamrith on 02 Feb 2018

  • Open flame is great.  BUT, it can also be a huge hassle if you do mostly low n slow and only occasionally do hot grilling.  Grease fires can be substantial.  I had a DC that had been used for low n slow mostly.  1st time I went hot for grilling it was a blowtorch because all that low n slow drippings was everywhere and once it was hot and flame hit it, woooooff...  If you hot grill all the time it is not an issue as it is constantly burned off in smaller doses.  Just something to keep in mind regardless of brand you go with.

    If you want to do searing I can fully recommend the bullseye as a good wood pellet searing station with direct flame to compliment any pellet grill you choose.  I love my 680, but if I lost everything and had to buy again today I would probably go stampede and bullseye.  The stampede is better sized for my low n slow needs and the bullseye is a phenominal griller.  Rectec also porcelin coated the bullseye and tested the it with fires.  The unit is made to take those flareups if you have them, though being hot all the time it is rare.

    Is the bullseye gonna be a better griller than the stampede? Seems like the smaller one get hotter
    Griller yes, it is smaller and has direct flame to the meat you are cooking.  It is designed 1st and for-most for grilling.  The other pellet grills with indirect heat are designed more for low n slow cooking.
  • #52 by lyork on 02 Feb 2018

  • Is the bullseye gonna be a better griller than the stampede? Seems like the smaller one get hotter
    Griller yes, it is smaller and has direct flame to the meat you are cooking.  It is designed 1st and for-most for grilling.  The other pellet grills with indirect heat are designed more for low n slow cooking.
    Wait...it has a direct flame capability ?? Which one??
  • #53 by Ross77 on 02 Feb 2018
  • They go below 200 on the Lo setting. The Lo setting runs the auger at the lowest feed rate. The previous controller range was 180 to 500+.

    I can’t use a direct flame on my 680 but with Grill Grates I get a good sear. Not quite the same as flame but close.
  • #54 by Ross77 on 02 Feb 2018
  • They posted another video on FB answering questions.  The SS body is 304 and 14 gauge. 
  • #55 by lyork on 02 Feb 2018
  • They posted another video on FB answering questions.  The SS body is 304 and 14 gauge.
    I called them and two people confirmed that the inside was 304, and the outside is 430 (which isn’t very good)
  • #56 by Ross77 on 02 Feb 2018
  • They posted another video on FB answering questions.  The SS body is 304 and 14 gauge.
    I called them and two people confirmed that the inside was 304, and the outside is 430 (which isn’t very good)

    Outside meaning the shelf?  I thought the body was one piece?  Interesting the outside and inside would be different.
  • #57 by lyork on 02 Feb 2018
  • They posted another video on FB answering questions.  The SS body is 304 and 14 gauge.
    I called them and two people confirmed that the inside was 304, and the outside is 430 (which isn’t very good)

    Outside meaning the shelf?  I thought the body was one piece?  Interesting the outside and inside would be different.

    No....the body is 430, which means the body, along with the shelf, lid etc.  430 stainless is pretty, for a while. It’s prone to discoloration and rust due to the carbon content. It’s actually cheaper in some instances to use 400 series in fab work as it comes “pre-finished” for lack of a better term. If you used carbon steel, which would be better than 400 series, it would have to powdered coated after bending. The Yoder 640 is carbon steel, and painted instead of powdered coated with high temp paint. Look at the cheap stainless grills at Home Depot or Lowes...this is 400 series stainless.

    Only these parts are the desired 304..which will last most of us at least 15 years, if not 25 years.

    (2) 304 stainless steel cooking grates
    304 stainless steel fire pot
    304 stainless steel heat deflector with integrated smoke tray
    304 stainless steel drip pan
  • #58 by lyork on 02 Feb 2018
  • All of this is the lower quality stainless, which is not a bad thing at all. People get focused on the term “Stainless” and think it means “lifetime”. If it was 304..it could very well be “lifetime”

    These are the items on the outside of the unit, that you see, and of course that includes the “cooking chamber” which is the body

    Stainless steel cooking chamber • No paint to fade, flake, or fail
    Iconic micro polished stainless steel bull horn handles • Feel the trademark REC TEC quality
    Stainless steel hopper lid • Doubles as a warming surface
    Stainless steel hopper lid piano hinge • Worry free operation for lifetime of your grill
    Stainless steel fail-proof lid stops • Won't buckle, bend, or break
    Stainless steel spill proof bucket hook • Keep grease bucket from getting knocked off
    2 Stainless steel pull bar handles • Allows you to easily move your grill
    Baked-on porcelain enamel lid with embossed REC TEC GRILLS logo • Cleans easily to maintain a vibrant, new appearance
  • #59 by LowSlowJoe on 03 Feb 2018
  • I beg to  differ on that opinion of 430 stainless discoloration and rust...   iv got a 430 ss grill that's sat outside uncovered for about 10 years it's got virtually no discoloration and any surface rust that may be there right now could very easily clean up... Nothing particularly wrong with good quality 430 SS.
  • #60 by lyork on 03 Feb 2018
  • I beg to  differ on that opinion of 430 stainless discoloration and rust...   iv got a 430 ss grill that's sat outside uncovered for about 10 years it's got virtually no discoloration and any surface rust that may be there right now could very easily clean up... Nothing particularly wrong with good quality 430 SS.
    I’m not saying it’s a bad thing. The consistency of the 430 stainless from the Asian markets varies incredibly. If it’s domestic..then that is a moot point. 304 and 316 stainless that’s domestic, will often times cross certify to 303L and 304L from a domestic market, but rarely from an Asian market.
     
    My posts on material being used is not knocking the choice of using 430, it’s a great choice in giving us a stainless exterior, that requires just minimal upkeep. It’s in response to another member saying it was all 304, which was incorrect.

    I really like the new Grills (wish they had open flame) and the 304 Stainless inside over rides the stainless on the other parts. We also don’t have to worry about paint or powder coat flaking then dealing with the more major rusting of a bare carbon steel underneath. Just be prepared to use a good metal polish occasionally as part of a yearly routine and it’ll last for years

    (Long story short)  :)

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