As there were a few scattered posts regarding this subject, I thought I would consolidate things.
The screws - Stainless steel, Phillips #2 head, 1/2" long, size: 10x 24.
Tools required - #2 Phillips screw driver with a good , like new end. A large diameter handle will help.
- May be required:"Vicegrips", curved jaw such as model# 7WR. As the end of the jaws will be used to grip the screw head, they should be in good condition.
- Penetrating oil.
- 10 x 24 Tap and Die with the handles, to restore the threads.
-Small wire brush.
The method: With all the internals removed, clean around the screw heads using a wire brush. Place the screwdriver into the screw head. Taping down on it will ensure better engagement. Wile forcing down as hard as you can, try to unscrew (counter clockwise) the screw. Keep forcing down hard until the screw is removed..If the screw wont budge or has a stripped head, revert to the Vicegrips by holding them horizontally and biting down on the screw head using the outer end of the jaws. It is important to be pushing the jaws down firmly against the burn pot while clamping onto the screw head. If not the screw head may be rounded off. If this happens, re locate the Vicegrips to a new location on the screw head.
If the screw loosens and is hard to turn, screw it back and forth moving progressively outward..Penetrating oil may help here: Apply, wiggle the screw back and forth and re apply. Give the penetrating oil time to work.
With the screws out, the the threads in the burn pot may have to be chased using the 10 x 24 tap... The screws when in place extended beyond the weld nuts in the housing. When removed, the accumulated contaminates on the threads was forced into the weld nuts upon removal, slightly distorting the treads.
I strongly recomend replacing the nuts with " Hex Head" nuts. Much easier to grip onto. Make sure they are a good grade stainless such as 18.8.
In all cases, install a split lock washer under each screw head. It's purpose is to hold the head up off the burn pot to allow Vicegrips to be used in the future if required. The split lock is thicker than a flat washer and won't protrude past the screw head.
Do not tighten the screws too much! Just barely tight will be fine. The burn pot isn't a load bearing device requiring a high clamping force.
If a screw breaks off it will have to be drilled out. The best way is to grind off the screw head(s), remove the burn pot and go from there.
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Topic: Burn Pot Screw Removal (Read 627 times)