Since I'm hoping to have a new controller soon I didn't try to add any kind of switch. The pins and connectors are very tiny and in a very tight space. Pretty much beyond my skill level to try to tap into. I wedged a couple pieces of paper clip temporarily against the connection and tapped using a wire with alligator clips to simulate a button press. My plan is to not change the temperature again until I have the new controller.

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Aha, good to know the actual controller board is still working.

I bet at some point someone will come along looking for the board and you'll be able to recoup some of the cost of the new controller.

Might look into these guys for parts.

https://www.sawtoothpelletgrills.com/product-category/products/accessories/


Grill looks a lot like the Q450.

The new controller came today from Blaz'n Grill. Same controller, different wiring harness, so I used the old one. Same screw locations. It looks like their two models have different programming (it shows an option on the invoice). I chose for the grill closest in size figuring it will be close enough. I won't get to do a full test until tomorrow, but it does fire up.

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Here you can see possible problem areas. Notice that the new controller has caulk around the ribbon cable. It also looks like water seeped in to the front panel around the buttons. The new panel seems designed to keep water out better. I added a little weather stripping and I'll make more of an effort to keep it out of the rain.

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Thats weird.  I've had a lot of my grills outside with no cover for 3-5+ years and never had an issue like that.  The MAK had an issue where the screen got fried by the sunlight.  Apparently, they fixed that with a newer model controller which I have installed and have not had an issue so far (2-3 years).

I suspect that if they had run the plastic faceplate front all the way to the top of the metal plate like they did on the new one there would never have been a problem.

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Thats weird.  I've had a lot of my grills outside with no cover for 3-5+ years and never had an issue like that.  The MAK had an issue where the screen got fried by the sunlight.  Apparently, they fixed that with a newer model controller which I have installed and have not had an issue so far (2-3 years).

What's interesting is I had another "stainless" grill that started having "rust" issues a few years back.  I always had that grilled covered.

Got a replacement and quit covering it and the issue never happened.

I have a cover for my Q450 and have barely used it.  Grill in rain, snow.  It's been covered in ice, snow, rain.  I'm curious how long the controller will last, but part of me thinks not having it covered is better so it breathes freely rather than trapping moisture inside.

I finally wwas able to change mine to the RecTec that I purchased back in December. It appears to work fine. Now to decipher the Firecraft controller issue.It appears as said above that the buttons are a problem. If so then I may make a new plate with buttons?  again the picture rotated 90* counter clockwise?

Mike

Here is the faceplate removed so you can see the ribbon cables positions.

 The circuitry looks good. Must be the switch/contact itself.

 The circuitry looks good. Must be the switch/contact itself.

I see faint scars in the black contact areas where the circuit is missing or broken from the metal switches?
mk

I discovered the other day that the temperature up button no longer works. With FireCraft out of business that means I have to find something else to put in there. I sent off an email to Roanoke (the controller manufacturer) to see if they would be of any help, but I'm not holding my breath.

 

Blaz'n Grill appears to use the exact same board as mine, but again I can't order it straight from the website.

 
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You have to call to order the Blaz'n. Talk to Tim he will have it in the mail the next day.  I think the board is $99 but the new one with Wifi ?? Anyhow that is how you order from Blaz'n.  It is a great control.