I have seen some YouTube videos of guys who have added high temp weather-stripping to their smoker lids to seal in more smoke.

Has anyone tried that on a RT590? 

Would you recommend it?

See my reply on your other thread. 

See my reply on your other thread.

Thanks. 

I started this separate thread to get more attention to my question since it was not directly related to the original post in the other thread.

Smoke has to exit somewhere, whether out the stack, vents, or from leaks around the lid or elsewhere. As long as it exits above the grate level, it really doesn't matter.  Unless the smoke is staining your grill and that bothers you, don't worry about it. It won't increase smoke flavor.

Well stated!

I have seen some YouTube videos of guys who have added high temp weather-stripping to their smoker lids to seal in more smoke.

Has anyone tried that on a RT590? 

Would you recommend it?

I don't think anyone should use high temp or any kind of weather stripping. There are special "insulation strips for ovens and grills. Many like mine are made of a product called Nomex which can withstand very high temps. I believe it was developed for just that use. Others use woven heat proof fiberglass, I believe my kitchen oven has that type. I'm sure there are others that I am not aware of, but NOT weather stripping.

 bregent is right on.. These pellet pits are pressurised by the combustion fan thus  smoke will escape from anywhere it can (path of least resistance).  The more smoke being generated, IE Smoke Mode, the

more will be seen exiting the  pit anywhere it can. If a perfect world existed, all the smoke would exit the chimney/exhaust vents. However this would be aesthetic only.

Thanks for the replies!

I really appreciate the input.

Just for a contrast, the B380 (kettle shaped) has a spacer that you insert that keeps the lid from making contact with the bottom. I think that is so it does not allow the top to stick to or allow moisture to gather on the lid edge. (not sure, but they remind you to be sure and insert it when attaching the lid handle). Lots of smoke escapes there as well as from the vents in back.  Will ask them why the spacer.

Just for a contrast, the B380 (kettle shaped) has a spacer that you insert that keeps the lid from making contact with the bottom. I think that is so it does not allow the top to stick to or allow moisture to gather on the lid edge. (not sure, but they remind you to be sure and insert it when attaching the lid handle). Lots of smoke escapes there as well as from the vents in back.  Will ask them why the spacer.

The spacer is what they started to send out after they were telling everyone to ball up some foil to prop the lid open because of the back  burn when they were shutting down ending up in hoppers going up in flames.

Just for a contrast, the B380 (kettle shaped) has a spacer that you insert that keeps the lid from making contact with the bottom. I think that is so it does not allow the top to stick to or allow moisture to gather on the lid edge. (not sure, but they remind you to be sure and insert it when attaching the lid handle). Lots of smoke escapes there as well as from the vents in back.  Will ask them why the spacer.

The spacer is what they started to send out after they were telling everyone to ball up some foil to prop the lid open because of the back  burn when they were shutting down ending up in hoppers going up in flames.

Might be cause the original 380 had far few smoke vents than the current model, which still has the spacer. I have questioned the purpose of the space to them today and will report their answer. 

And the answer from RT is:  "It helps with ventilation and air flow."  So I guess the lid vents were not enough. It may also confirm that they know that the Bullseye runs hot. As I reported elsewhere, I adjusted the RTD and while not perfect (who cares?) the actual temp is much more accurate to the "set" temp on the control now. So sealant on the 590 OK if you want, Not OK on the 380.

And the answer from RT is:  "It helps with ventilation and air flow."  So I guess the lid vents were not enough. It may also confirm that they know that the Bullseye runs hot. As I reported elsewhere, I adjusted the RTD and while not perfect (who cares?) the actual temp is much more accurate to the "set" temp on the control now. So sealant on the 590 OK if you want, Not OK on the 380.

I had the original first run of the 380 and without the spacer there was a big problem of smoke pouring out the hopper and causing a condensation problem.

And the answer from RT is:  "It helps with ventilation and air flow."  So I guess the lid vents were not enough. It may also confirm that they know that the Bullseye runs hot. As I reported elsewhere, I adjusted the RTD and while not perfect (who cares?) the actual temp is much more accurate to the "set" temp on the control now. So sealant on the 590 OK if you want, Not OK on the 380.

I had the original first run of the 380 and without the spacer there was a big problem of smoke pouring out the hopper and causing a condensation problem.

Right. Not a new idea to crack the lid with an object, i.e. wad of aluminum foil, not so much to control smoke as to help control high temp. One of the RT reps suggested that to me when I called to inquire about adjusting RTD temp control. My question should have been "Why do you have an adjustment for the RTD on the control, if you aren't willing to use it??  Perhaps adjusting the RTD control might cause other parameters to change?  I don't for a minute believe that RT has it adjusted properly when it leaves the warehouse.  I am satisfied with the adjustment I have made so far. I fine tuned that and at present am at +18 for RTD.  I average out at about 224 when set to 225, and about 530 when set at 500. There is usually a larger swing over the target temp when it first gets there, but then gradually drifts down to the stable level as above.  Last PM did a steak sear on "riot" and sure enough the unit shot up to 811* and then came back down to stay at 751*. That is the discussed (elsewhere)limit.