Replacing the fire pot in my 1993 Traeger BBQ-100 as well as the old 3 way setting controller with a new Ortech thermostatically controlled controller I purchased from Ortech many years ago. The controller has a hot rod lead, but there is no place to terminate it on the old Traeger as it didn’t come with a hot rod. The early Traeger only used gel and a match as their starters. All the replacement fire pots I see have a port to place the hot rod. I can locate replacement hot rods, but see no parts that would add the hot rod igniter/switch. Does such a part exist? I am concerned that if I don’t add a hot rod (even though not used) it may affect the air flow into the fire pot as there would be n unfilled port into the fire pot.
Any advice out there? And yes I could buy a new smoker, but this one is built into my screened porch and would require major carpentry renovations. Beside, it still cooks like a champ.
Attached is a pix of the controller. Wiring diagram confirms a hot rod lead, but I'm not sure how to activate/fire off the hot rod.

Try a google search for Smoke Daddy.  He may have a replacement fire pot in stock to help you out.

Mike, my dad would have hugged you.  He preached, "Never throw it away.  Fix it.  Use it up and then use it for something else."  I don't have an answer for you, but I admire your quest.

If you replace the fire pot and install a hot rod the Ortech controller will take care of it. Just connect the hot rod to the leads from the controller and it should work.

Don't know how similar a Treager clone's(Pit Boss, et al) firepot is to your BBQ100's, but they are cheap($34 on ebay for both a fire box and ignitor). Good luck!

That is what I was thinking, but it has been so long since I owned mine I was not sure!

If you replace the fire pot and install a hot rod the Ortech controller will take care of it. Just connect the hot rod to the leads from the controller and it should work.

The RT firepot with ceramic starter is $79 and is "indestructible", Said to fit Traegers. So you might call them and check that out. Not sure whether the ceramic starter uses the same volt/amp at the older hot rod. But worth checking out.

 
 
   HOT ROD SWITCH: It is built into the controller.  @ start-up the hot rod circuit is energize  for ~ 4 minutes then turns itself off. It's a timer switch. To reactivate the hot rod any time, turn the controller off
 then on.. The only time you might do this is if there were no pellets in the hopper and auger. Extra time would be required to deliver the pellets to the fire pot. This delay in some cases be enough the
 igniter/hot rod would have to be re energized.

  FIREPOT: Most of the bottom feed burn pots pits use the same sized pot except for:

  Material. Stainless mild steel. No effect on combustion.

  Igniter. Most are the same. Rec tec has a larger diameter ceramic igniter requiring a different pot.  No effect on combustion. Ceramic igniters are claimed to have a much longer life. Most igniters consume 200
 to 300 Watts.

   AIR HOLES IN THE POT !!!!!!!  Either a 7 or 9 hole. Yours originally was a 7 hole. If a 9 hole is used, you'll have to give up low temp/ smoke control for a slightly faster warm-up and a slightly higher "high"
 temp.
 
The pot diments are the same.

 No the igniter won't reduce pit temps.

 I believe you will find the Ortec controller to put you over the top vs the 3 position OE switch..

 You aren't the first to restore a BBQ 100.  If you do a search, there are some posts out there you may find interesting.

 Please keep us posted on the restoration.

Thanks for all the responses, especially Canadian John. Your response was very detailed and what I needed!!

Since my Traeger did not have a hot rod, can one be added if there is no built in channel to house the wire?

 Yes. The igniter (hot rod) wires are routed in the square housing that the firepot is housed in. The routing is between this housing and the round auger housing. There are one or two obstacles.

 1/ Routing the igniter wires thru the housing. IF there was an existing igniter, attaching the new igniter wires to the old igniter (electrical tape) and pulling it thru would be an easy task. In your case, you must

"fish" the igniter wires thru from the firepot to the controller. A modified metal coat hanger and electrical tape should do it.

 2/ The other obstacle may be there is no hole in the pit body and/or hopper housing for the igniter wires to pass thru. This may be the case as originally there was no igniter. Fabricating a hole shouldn't be hard

to do. Just a few precautionary notes. The hole must not have any jagged edges that could end up compromising the wires (short circuits and/or grounds). The hole must be minimal in size as this hole will allow

 pressurized combustion air to escape. My foggy memory tells me the hole should be ~  1/2" to 3/4" . It's always easier to upsize!

 Search; replacing the hot rod. There are many helpful youtube videos out there. It should give you a good idea of what to do..

Replacing the fire pot in my 1993 Traeger BBQ-100 as well as the old 3 way setting controller with a new Ortech thermostatically controlled controller I purchased from Ortech many years ago. The controller has a hot rod lead, but there is no place to terminate it on the old Traeger as it didn’t come with a hot rod. The early Traeger only used gel and a match as their starters. All the replacement fire pots I see have a port to place the hot rod. I can locate replacement hot rods, but see no parts that would add the hot rod igniter/switch. Does such a part exist? I am concerned that if I don’t add a hot rod (even though not used) it may affect the air flow into the fire pot as there would be n unfilled port into the fire pot.
Any advice out there? And yes I could buy a new smoker, but this one is built into my screened porch and would require major carpentry renovations. Beside, it still cooks like a champ.
Attached is a pix of the controller. Wiring diagram confirms a hot rod lead, but I'm not sure how to activate/fire off the hot rod.

You can get a SS firepot with built in ceramic (forever) starter for about $75 on the RT site. They say it will retrofit on Traeger with its digital control. The Ortec will work just fine. I would call and ask them at RT and they will give you the yahs an Nays.  I think it will drop right in and you will be up and modern.