Pellet Fan
Pit Talk -- Comments and Questions Regarding These Pellet Pits => Firecraft => Topic started by: MN-Smoker on November 17, 2020, 07:41:50 AM
-
Appears the contact behind the membrane plate is beginning to fail on my firecraft.
The top buttons work, but the lower buttons (lower temp, pellet prime) do not.
Didn't know if anyone had a fix on this.
Debating how much money to throw at this grill.
It's been good so far but getting it up to temp on cold days has taken more time.
-
This brand seems to be a cold topic on this site lately as several members are either trying to fix one they got for dirt cheap or are willing to give theirs away for free as they are tired of dealing with igniter and controller issues.
-
The body of it is in fine shape, and my heating element was easy to change out once diagnosed.
I'm just not thrilled about possibly messing with a controller and figuring out how to install it, wire it, etc., only to have issues later.
But if it fixes it and lasts another 3 years it won't be horrible.
-
I decided to purchase a cheap 50125-AMP controller to try messing with it.
Included the LG wiring hardness, so this will set me back about $100.
Worth a try to get 3 more years out of it.
I'll have to figure out the wiring and settings, but instructions for programming the controller are included.
We'll see how it goes!
-
That sounds interesting. It's nice to see someone fixing things in our throwaway world.. Please keep us posted.
-
Wouldn't it easier to revert to a non-pid controller like the Ortech? Takes away the programming issues.
-
I thought there were a few members on here that used a rec tec or a Blaz'n controller to swap out?
-
A pretty much drop-in controller would be the Louisiana Grills Digital Control Center.
The only caution would be you would need to look at the C settings on the Firecraft controller and then change them on the new controller to match.
-
I thought there were a few members on here that used a rec tec or a Blaz'n controller to swap out?
I have a RecTec WiFi controller in mine. It worked great for a couple of years, but then I started to have temperature control problems. Even when set to Low, the temperature would race out of control and be well over 300. The controller reading that temperature and confirmed with a remote temperature probe. I tried adjusting the feed rate setting, and another setting (maybe a delay) on the controller but it didn't help. This problem seemed to go away with the summer weather. In the end, I decided to stop throwing time and money at a problem that might never have a full resolution.
-
A pretty much drop-in controller would be the Louisiana Grills Digital Control Center.
The only caution would be you would need to look at the C settings on the Firecraft controller and then change them on the new controller to match.
I got the knock-off Louisiana Controller 50125.
A google search for "50125-AMP" will get people to what I'm looking at.
It arrived today. The holes don't match up so I had to add a hole with the drill to the left, but I now have it mounted.
I'm glad I got the wiring harness. I'm not in the midst of matching up the wires.
On the firecraft, half the hardness is a common neutral wire with about 4 connectors on it. I took pictures before taking everything apart and found instructions online for the new one on what each should do.
Again, all the whites are neutral, so that makes things a bit easier. I have to cut off some of the existing connectors and put on new. The connectors I have don't have insulated ends, so I need to change a couple out. Probably a run to the store in the AM.
I'll have to figure out the coding. I found the instructions for the Louisiana controller, but I have no idea what the original firecraft setting were.
-
You may already have this: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1723/1387/files/50125-instructions.pdf.. If not, it may help.
-
Thanks.
I was just printing this as I figured I'd provide an update.
Mine new controller is a "375" setpoint.
I don't know what most of these settings are actually for but it appears the important ones that vary are:
6
9
I
L
and P
I think I'll try the Generation 2 levels as they are and see if grill gets too hot from there.
-
I tried to get into the settings and so far was unsuccessful.
At one point I got a letter "F" and that was it, and buttons seemed unresponsive after that.
I'm now just doing a test run with it.
Setting the temp for 350 or 375 and going to see how it works. Maybe it will work pretty well.
I noticed, contrary to the instructions, mine has blue LED lights instead of the grey/black numbers on the LED readout.
-
So far I've been running the new controller at it's factory settings.
It gets to 325 okay, but it doesn't seem to want to get to warmer temperatures as it's currently programmed.
So far it also seems to lag with getting back up to temp after I open the hood to check on things.
Sent a request for technical support from the place I bought it from to see if they have tips on programming.
We'll see if I get some update info there.
-
So far I've been running the new controller at it's factory settings.
It gets to 325 okay, but it doesn't seem to want to get to warmer temperatures as it's currently programmed.
So far it also seems to lag with getting back up to temp after I open the hood to check on things.
Sent a request for technical support from the place I bought it from to see if they have tips on programming.
We'll see if I get some update info there.
Just an update for those following along.
I reached out to support and they are saying the controllers are no longer programmable. So I guess I'll throw a blanket on the grill and see if I can hit those temperatures in this colder climate that way.
I'm going to use it tomorrow for the turkey. Going to go 300-325 for 3 hours or so. We'll see how she does.
-
One more update.
I bought the cheap controller and it appears it's not programmable.
On the default settings the last few days it's been working fine.
With the cooler weather, it takes a bit to get up to temperature, but I had it at 400 degrees the other day and things seem to be fine.
Sure beats spending $900 on another grill for now.
Hopefully this will last me for a few years again.
-
MN-Smoker,
If you have time, it would be informative to know if the aftermarket controller will allow you to go down to 180* and how high it will go.
-
MN-Smoker,
If you have time, it would be informative to know if the aftermarket controller will allow you to go down to 180* and how high it will go.
I'll check it out.
I had it down to 200 for keeping the turkey warm for a bit on Thanksgiving, and I've had it up to 400.
I just checked to see how high I can set it, 180 is the low mark on the readout. High mark is 600. I have not tested either of these temps. (and a little hesitant to try to get 600 degrees out of that thing).
-
I wouldn't want to go past 450 or 500 myself.
I would be afraid of warpage.
-
The buttons on my control panel are beginning to fail. I have to "roll" my finger across the power button to get a connection. If I unplug the unit, I get an odd code (01 01) when I plug it back in. It then clears itself and I can start the unit, but it defaults to a temp setting of 450.
Been a great smoker up to now, but I'd replace it before I would start trying to find a controller, etc.
serial # 00070 so if it dies I feel I've gotten my money's worth.
-
The buttons on my control panel are beginning to fail. I have to "roll" my finger across the power button to get a connection. If I unplug the unit, I get an odd code (01 01) when I plug it back in. It then clears itself and I can start the unit, but it defaults to a temp setting of 450.
Been a great smoker up to now, but I'd replace it before I would start trying to find a controller, etc.
serial # 00070 so if it dies I feel I've gotten my money's worth.
Yeh, it's definitely a big question of whether to throw good money after bad.
The condition of mine is still sound and I purchased in 2017, so I didn't have the heart to toss it without trying.
I replaced the igniter last year which gave me some familiarity with it to do some DIY work on it.
So far my gamble is paying off, but messing with electrical components and throwing money at it with no company left standing to support your efforts is risky.
Far easier decision to move on if you have something else in mind to go to as well.
-
I've wondered if a GMG Daniel Boone controller would work. They're great for parts. Cheap and they'll sell darn near anything.