Pellet Fan
All Things Considered => General Discussion--Non food Related => Topic started by: Bentley on November 21, 2020, 05:51:24 PM
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So we want to put a concrete slab next to the shed so we can put the split wood on it and be able to scrape up the logs with the bucket of the tractor and bring up to the house and dump without picking up dirt and such. So that is the jist of the project.
After the small pad for the Spa, I am comfortable doing the forms and working the concrete. What I am not good at is figuring out how to screed areas that are larger then say 12 feet. That is about the length of 2 x 6 I feel comfortable using to screed. So I will ask a few questions and hope we have some Members that have worked with concrete slabs and can help me. Cuz we all know I aint paying for something I think I can do!
As of now it looks like it will go at the back of the shed. The Shed is 18' wide and I am gonna come out appx 20'. So about 4 yards of concrete. But a span that is longer then 12'. Pretty sure the truck will be able to get right up next to the shed, so it will be very easy for him to swing the boom to either side, but I think that it still needs to be screeded? Is it usually poured in sections to accomplish this? Obviously the finish is not really going to be of importance, as stated, this is just to keep the wood off the ground and be easier for the tractor bucket to pick it up!
Another thing I would like to do is have a back and sides on the slab. The back so that I do not push the bucket into the metal shed and the sides just and an enclosure for the wood. Suggestions on that? Any idea how hard is it to make a form to pour a 4' wall with the slab? Or would a cinder block filled with rebar and concrete be more stable? The sides are not a huge factor as they are more containment, but the wall that will be up against the shed, it is what the wood will at some point will be pushed into and I would need it to take some force. If I do a 4 ft. back and side wall, it will be appx 1440 sqft which would theoretically hold 11.25 cords, but since i will never beable to get them tight, i am think more like 7, which is about 1 season of fire wood.
Any suggestion will be appreciated. I tried to do some drawings on Paint and it is funny, I can see it in my mind, but trying to do architectural views, just aint gonna happen, so I did this stick figure.
(https://i.imgur.com/aY1YRDkh.jpg)
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Oh, and if you really want a challenge, will an 18' x 20', 4 inch reinforced concrete slab hold the weight of a 2800lb. tractor!
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Not a concrete guy, but I do know there are different strengths of concrete.
Obviously, your foundation under the concrete needs to be solid.
For the screeding, couldn't you screw or bolt three 10' 2/4's together with a 3' overlap to give to 24' to do the screeding?
One person on each side.
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The 2800 lb. tractor should not be a problem so long as the soil under the pad is firmly compacted. The wall is a different story, I believe that if a 4' wall is going to survive very much stress, it'll have to have at least a 12-14" footing of some sort with vertical rebar inserted. Walls are no fun, you might be able to rent the forms and retaining hardware. As for the slab, I'd section it off with treated 2X4's into sizes that you could handle. The 2X4's will also act as expansion joints to prevent or at least minimize cracking. BTW, when I was involved with concrete, we used concrete reinforced with fiberglass, I believe that there are two sizes of fiberglass strands are available. It cost a little more but saves having to use rebar.
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So can I embed the 1st row of cinder block directly on to the wet concrete and have vertical rebar imbedded in the pad aslo to strengthen the cinder block wall? This project is going to require a lot of planning for me to not half it !
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I'm thinking a cinderblock retaining wall will probably not hold up to being pushed on with your bucket. And it will come under some pushing if you're loading with a tractor. This would hold up and you could push against them all day long. [ Invalid Attachment ]
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I would think the cinder block of concrete wall could crack if hit with the tractor.
What about a simpler solution, just put tire stops on the slab so tractor can't hit shed?
Make them so that can be removed and not in the way when not using the tractor.
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The back wall will not have a lot of bucket pressure on it, you pretty much ease into it, you just need some resistance to get the wood to hold to scoop into the bucket. Somewhat hard to explain if you have never never used a tractor bucket.
My research needs to find out if the pad can also act as a footer for the cinder block or whatever solution will give the greatest strength. I am going to try and place rebar every other block and fill with cement. The stamped concrete slabs would be nice, but would need a form or have to be bought and I would still have the issue of securing to slab. Been watching a lot of youtube videos on wall construction.
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I would not use cinder blocks
I would use concrete blocks, a lot stronger then fill the holes with mortar or cement as you build the wall.
I helped my dad when I was about 14 or so build horse showers at a horse stable.
That is what we used and the horses till this day never kicked through the wall.
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I guess I am old enough that I say cinder block when I mean cement. I am looking at Cored Concrete Block. I do not want to use a Standard Concrete Block because of the size difference and price difference. Not sure they even sell cinder block anymore?
What I am also trying to learn...can I build the wall right on the concrete slab? Will the slab act as the footer? There are the things I know nothing about and you really can't find the info online or youtube, 100's of video on laying the block and leveling the block and this technique and that technique. But nothing really specific to what I see in my mind!
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I think that I would dig a footing for your wall and pour it with your slab all the same time.
Another thought. Sounds like your wall does not need to be that strong. What about strong wood posts and treated 2x10's?
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Might work. I guess I could do the slab 1st, save room for a footer for the wall, and try some other options 1st!
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Another option when you pour your slab, make it a monolithic pour and imbed rebar in the monolithic section sticking straight up and mount your concrete blocks with the rebar inside the cavities and pour concrete inside your block cavities.
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Many good ideas that has me thinking and maybe able to lower overall cost thanks to all who have made suggestions!
Not sure what you mean by monolithic? The concreate pad will definitely have vertical rebar along back wall and side walls to support the blocks and they will definitely have concrete poured in them if I go that route! Probably no concrete in side walls!
The 8 x 8's with pressure threated 2 x 10's maybe another option for the back and side walls. If I can learn how to incorporate about a 6 inch high back to the pad (like in a parking lot or a gutter) that is probably all I would need to "push" the wood into the bucket when we get down that low. The Wood back and sides would then hold the wood pile in and would save a lot of money and much back pain! Although the hot tub is here!
Another option when you pour your slab, make it a monolithic pour and imbed rebar in the monolithic section sticking straight up and mount your concrete blocks with the rebar inside the cavities and pour concrete inside your block cavities.
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Method of creating 6" back wall. (Sorry for the amateurish drawing but its been years since I've even opened my cad program)
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Please dont apologize! I am so naïve, I do not know how you keep the form on the left in place?
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For smaller spans, 8' or less, I'd just rest it on the outer forms with a couple of stabilizers nailed across the top to the outer form to prevent bowing. Longer spans present a problem, one thought is to use stakes on one side or the other and either cut them off even with the slab or leave them in the wall depending which side is used. Somebody from the forum will surly come up with a better idea.
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I got the old falling apart contraption out of the way and dug for about 30 minutes with the tractor. Will try and get the rest of the rough shape done tomorrow.
(https://i.imgur.com/vbmsaY4h.jpg)
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I have roughed out the pad for the concrete. Have decided instead of cinder block, will use treated 4x4's and either something like Trex or a pressure treated 2x8 for the back and sides. Got 2 of the five set in concrete today. The horizontal wood silo will be 18' x 20'. At this time I plan on going up the back and sides 4 feet, but will have the option of 6' if needed. I am trying to get the back five 4x4's set so that I can start on the 2x6 forms. I figured I would use 2x6 and back fill for a 5" reinforced pour. It is slow going by myself, but it is slowly taking shape. The pile of split wood should be gone by the end of this winter fire season. The rest will be processed and put in the silo, hopefully it will all fit. The numbers say that 11 cords should fit, but that I believe is if they were neatly stacked. I will be splitting and throwing and pushing with tractor bucket. I am hoping to get maybe 7 cords in it! I have no idea how much is sitting on the access road, but hopefully it will all fit. Will also reseed the area that had been thrashed by wood and tractor and get it back looking a little nicer.
(https://i.imgur.com/q16bCV7h.jpg)
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Quite the project...
I assume you have a wood splitter.
That is what I will be doing in a few minutes, splitting wood for the pizza oven.
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Old 27 Ton Troy-bilt broke after 6 years of hard use. Got a new 32 ton that seems like it will be even better, just a no name from Lowes, but if it lasts as long as the Troy-bilt will be happy.
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Mine is a small one, only paid $300 for it a few years ago from Grizzly tools.
The only reason I bought it because it was on sale (and cheap). ;D
6" - 8" diameter is about the largest I have to split.
Was using an axe before. Splitter is much safer.
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Looks like you have a good plan Bentley
Out off curiosity how did your stuck tractor that cracked the frame turn out?
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I've never taken on a project that large, Bentley, but smaller ones. There's something very satisfying about the progress made during a day's work. I'd fall into bed, sigh, smile and be asleep. I hope it works as well for you.
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5 weeks and $4400 later it was as good as new!
Out off curiosity how did your stuck tractor that cracked the frame turn out?
(https://i.imgur.com/JgC8mcPh.jpg)
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WOW, quite the mud bog.
Looks like a good place to bury the bodies.
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If I move the four 2x6's to the front part of the five 4x4's instead of having it up against the shed, then put another 2x6 on top of the existing ones. Then pour concrete in the pad and also behind the 2x6's and when dry I remove the top 2x6's I will have a 6 inch curb right?
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5-1/2" curb I think.
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OK, yeah...Not exact, but is the theory sound. Not a concreate guy as you can all tell.
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The back forms are in. Now here is where an amateur (not even sure I can be called that) has no clue. I want there to be a lip (dont even know proper term) up the back of the shed about 6 inches. So I have decided if I put a 2nd 2x6 on top of the existing form I will have my lip. It then dawned on me if I backfill the pad so that only 5 inches is exposed for the pad my "lip" will not be connected to the pad. So I plan to leave the open area underneath the wall forms unfilled and hope that the mud will be thick enough to set up as it fills up the vertical form.
Ahh, the bliss of ignorance!
We are set to get 4-8 inches of snow over the next 36 hours. If that happens, I will not be able to get back in here till March I bet!
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I just had an idea (a rare occurrence, but it does happen once in a while).
How about making a frame the size of the curb long enough to set on the slab forms (left and right sides).
You could just set it on the the slab forms and pour concrete in it right after pouring the slab.
Would probably want to put some rebar in it for additional support.
That way you could put the curb as close or as far from shed wall as you want
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I thought that is what I was doing, but I have no spatial cognition, so I cant "see" what you are saying!
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I guess I misunderstood what you were saying.
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If you look at the 2nd photo in reply #26 you will see the 2nd 2x6 on top of the pad form. I plan on pouring concrete behind it and then removing the 2x6's when it is dry!
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OK, that is what I thought you meant.
What I was thinking was, instead of that, make a 4 sided frame (no top or bottom) the size of the curb that you could set on top of the slab forms and
position it anywhere you want the curb to be.
Now if you want the curb to be right against the shed wall, then forget everything I said. ;D
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How wide is the pad? If its more than 8 ft. or so, you might consider a middle treated 2X4 so that you can screed half at a time. The center board will also act as an expansion joint to reduce cracking. A long, long time ago, I poured an 8' by 48' driveway 8' at a time using that technique. :2cents:
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It is 18 x 20. That is exactly what I am doing. Will run a 2by down the middle of the center 4x4, the 20 feet and only have to deal with 2, 9x20 sections (expansion joint too as you mention). The 1st section I think will be easier then the 2nd since the screeding can be done on either side when doing 1st section, but will have to pull the 2nd from the top down. Hoping since there will be easy access the truck will back right up to the pad and there will be limited shoveling of mud and also limited screeding altogether.
How wide is the pad? If its more than 8 ft. or so, you might consider a middle treated 2X4 so that you can screed half at a time.
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You might also consider putting a cross member parallel to the shed splitting the pad into four quadrants. Smaller segments are easier to screed and protect better against cracking. You can leave the outside form parallel to the shed off and back the truck between the forms, pour, screed, back up to the second section near the shed, pour, then nail on the form that you left off and pour the other two sections. It's probably not necessary, but when I did this type of pour, I put 12" pieces of rebar through the middle of all forms that have concrete on both sides to mitigate uneven settling. Something like this. (sorry for poor drawing, it's late)
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Thank you!
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We had snow at the very beginning of Feb. Right about the time I made the last post, and I was thinking to myself that if we got that snow, I would not get back into this project till after Feb. Pretty sure that is going to prove to be true. It is such a non productive time of year for home chores in this part of the world. Everything is wet, and you simply can't get into it. About the only thing one can do is clean the house, and we all know that is kind of laughable...
It is simply a nasty time of year...although, starting next Monday it is supposed to be above 50° for 8 days in a row. Maybe Dark Winter is finally over!
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Were you able to get out of the mud after your chair fell in it? ;D
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I was certain that when I did the excavation, that I was real close front to back and side to side with the correct amount taken out. Man, I will not be getting hired by any of the Pharos I guess. I do not have a bubble that I could put on a string to level. So the only way this math deficient worker new to get the fall for the slab was to level all the forms and then run a line (I did this on the far left), have to do the other 2 tomorrow. I will now drop the line down 1.5 inches and then set the forms to the angle. Then I will fill the sides and front and also fill in the pad.
I am thinking of putting a 20' piece or rebar every 4 feet from top to bottom, then tie some hog wire to it and pour.
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I was cruising along, had the pad leveled at 5", was drilling the holes in the forms to run the rebar through so I can lay the wire mesh and the battery dies on the cordless. Oh well, always tomorrow!
Ohh, and my math is so bad I was 6 boards short for the backer!
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Looking good!! :clap:
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You are a nice guy! If you saw it in person, you would bust out laughing!
Looking good!! :clap:
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Well, it is ready for the cement. Did not have as much wire as I hoped, but some is better then none!
Once I get pad #2 ready, will have the trucks come in and pour. The other pad will be much simpler, a 2x4 form on a 19x22 pad with a 1x down the middle. Hope to have it finished by the weekend.
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Just wondering, how are you going remove your middle form boards with the rebar drilled and passed through them?
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Just wondering, how are you going remove your middle form boards with the rebar drilled and passed through them?
Ya don't, it's left in for an expansion joint.
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...and hopefully it's pressure treated. When's the big pour? :D
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Believe it or not, will probably leave all forms in the ground. Will cut rebar off after it sets. Old wood, no use other then to burn in fireplace. It is probably 40-50 years old. Will fill dirt right up to form and them plant grass.
I would hope to pour within the next 2 weeks. Will all depend on when I get 2nd pad done and weather!
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Each morning I say today will be the day I finish this and 3:30 rolls around and you are not finished. I guess I need to quit taking a 10 minute coffee break every 15 minutes of work!
It ain't square, but it is level!
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You are getting a good work out
Using ta tiller is no fun
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It ain't square, but it is level!
Come on guy, you got it in you, pop a string from each corner and move those supporting stakes to get it square(r).
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Hugh, if it was 4 board forms & real masonry stakes I probably would. You have to realize Cheap Screws go up to the hanger, get old wood that was used for scaffolding and repurpose it for forms. So instead of it being 4 boards it is 8 and 3 in the middle for the expansion joint. And CS use home made stakes instead of the nice flat metal ones with the nail holes in them. I can't imagine the nightmare it would be trying to get the mishmash of stakes up!
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Hoping for rain on the 18th. Shooting to pour on the 23rd!
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Some nice racquetball courts you are building there.
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Use to really enjoy that sport in my 20's! Took some vicious hits to the back of the legs with that rubber ball!
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Missed 2 opportunities to pour in April due to weather. Been trying to get concrete since May 7th! Finally have the 9 yards coming next Friday! So hopefully this will be done in a week and I can start moving logs!
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I Love the Weather. We have had no real rain for almost 3 weeks. Now, the evening before I need to pour 9 yards of concrete, it rains 2 5/8 inches in 3 hours. Pads are soaked and there is pools of water. You would think it is a script for a sitcom!
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I Love the Weather. We have had no real rain for almost 3 weeks. Now, the evening before I need to pour 9 yards of concrete, it rains 2 5/8 inches in 3 hours. Pads are soaked and there is pools of water. You would think it is a script for a sitcom!
After being in construction for 38 years it is almost guaranteed to be rained on when you don't want it to. Can you dig a trench in a corner to drain the water off? We usually did this just in case. A little water won't hurt if your concrete is a tad dryer. Just check to make sure your reinforcement is still clean for bonding to the concrete.
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When we had a dry spell I'd paint the lawn furniture. Bingo! Rain for the farmers.
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I expected the wood bunker silo to be rough, no issues with it, just wont matter for what it is going to be used for. Can't get the truck where I want it for either pour because of rain last night.
But the pad for where the new shed will go, it turned into a nightmare...so have to shovel way more then I thought for bunker pad...so get torn down way faster then I though...so my perfectly good concrete calculation are way off?...so end up doing the dee da dee all is going well lets just pour both sides like the other pad cuz nothing can go wrong...so 9 yards is either not even close for an 18' x 20' x 4.5" and a 21' x 19' x 3" or you say you sent me 9 yards and you are full of...so the sun comes out while working on pad 2 and you are already spent and you end up with this!
To say I am disappointed with pad #2 would be an understatement!
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Ask them to come back when they have leftovers from another job to finish it off for you
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I do not know how it works. I know that a short load cost more and it is anything less then 9 yards. I still can't seem to get an answer on what it will cost per yard if a short load. She says $27/yard more, so I say 3 yards will be $173/yard and she says no, it will be 7 yards at regular yard price to have 3 yards delivered...I realize I am in no shape or mood for this BS now and say thank you and good-bye...AA must be working, cuz just or 15 years ago, that phone conversation would have gone a whole different way!
We won't put the shed in for months...I guarantee I am not pouring concrete again till it is in the 50's! So it really does not matter what the cost is right now. What I did find eye opening is the cost of bagged cement. I assumed doing bags of concrete would always be cheaper then having it delivered. Wrong. According to my calculations, it takes 45 bags of 80lb. bags to equal 1 yard. At the current cost of $4.78/bag, that is $215/yard without tax or rental of mixer for said bags.
It has been a long morning!
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Kristin took a couple of shots! I expected the truck to be at the far left of photos, backing into forms with the chute going from side to side, one quadrant at a time, very little shoveling and raking, very easy screeding...no such luck! What can I say...Par for the Course!
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I used to play on a summer league basketball team sponsored by a cement company that was run by the kids of the owner. They used to have leftovers from jobs that they would deliver to people for free but you had to be ready when they called and said they were on their way.
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After today, I just had to laugh/cry at this one!
Just because you think you can do something is not always a reason to try. Rebar has been out there for 3 months, probably is not a place on it that does not have rust. I had no idea!
Just check to make sure your reinforcement is still clean for bonding to the concrete.
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I must be grateful! The Bunker Silo pour is done, I can now put in my side 4x4's and get the side 2x10's up, and I can start moving & cutting wood and get it in there for the winter!
I have and live a blessed life! And I have all of you to share it with! So today was a good day!
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that is a positive way to reflect on the day...now hop in the hot tub
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She says $27 per yard
Is this a typo? I was paying between $52 and $55 per yard for fiberglass reinforced in 2003. ???
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I should have said $27/yard more then a standard load. I will have to change that! This was 9 yards @ $146/yard.
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I should have said $27/yard more then a standard load. I will have to change that! This was 9 yards @ $146/yard.
Ouch!
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Yeah, concrete is not at those prices anymore. The Culpeper company wanted $187/yard.
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Have reached what I think is about 30% capacity. The numbers are not exact, but according to the rough Math, it should be about 630 sqft of split wood which should equate to 4.9 cords.
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May be a stupid question, buy why didn't you put a another shed like you have there, and put the wood in it to keep it dry ?
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The sheds have gone from $3800 (that included shipping and assembly) when we put that one in to about $7500 (if you want it assembled). The wood is not outside in the elements long enough to go bad, and I wanted to be able to pile it easy and bring it to the house in the bucket of the tractor without digging up the ground when I do it!
So the Bunker silo I believe will work very well for that at 1/3 the price.
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Makes sense...
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Nice job Bentley :clap:
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Trying to salvage the CF that this pad was! Still pretty rough, but at least evened up, and about two 9 1/2 x 6 sections left to do. Just over a yard.
Before.
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After.
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Not that it will really matter in the long run, I guess? But it is amazing what my eye thinks is square/level/plumb when I just eye it!
What my eye sees...
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Reality...
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Pull the nails out of the 2x closest to the shed, swing it out until lined up with front one, nail it back in, and pour some concrete in the triangle.
Presto! nice and straight.
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It does not matter cuz everything to the right is going to be concreted. It is just the fact that I think they are both straight as an arrow and they are not even close. I wonder if the 3nd in charge of Pharaoh's engineering got real good at math and fast after the head guy and #2 did this and were quickly gone!
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I found out today that maybe a person can edge a semi circle with a normal edging device, but I cannot! I got about half way on either side. There comes a time when a person should admit they do not have the skill sets to do somethings, but that is most difficult for a cheap screw! And yes, looking at the bender board I realize that I needed more stakes, but when you embrace mediocrity it is easy to over look!
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And the right side...Missed it by that much!
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Use the 3:4:5 method to get a square corner.
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That takes your fundamental grasp of mathematics, so that is out!
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About 30 more bags and I will be finished. A 9 x 6 foot section is all that is left. Starting to get fairly good at a rough finish! Light at the end of the scary tunnel!
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I wouldn't have the patience to do that.
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Your a lot more skilled then I am Bentley. I want to try working with concrete, but I just picture it turning out really bad. Something to consider for smaller jobs though is that Harbor Freight sells cement mixers for less then $200 before coupons if you wanted to deal with mixing your own. I considered renting one, but at that kind of price I can afford to buy one and figure out what I am doing, compared to renting. The 80 pound bags are horrible to move, but can deal with most of that with the front loader on my tractor thankfully.
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I wanted a direct drive mixer, so I bought the Kobalt 4 cu ft from Lowes. It makes all the difference in the world. It will take 3 60lb. bags with no issue and you can plow thru some mud if you have someone to help you shovel and rake it into place.
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Looks like it would do the job nicely.
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I've done my share of concrete jobs in my lifetime but for jobs that large, I do the forms and just call the concrete guy. ::) For even larger jobs I didn't even do the forms.
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Bent has been doing some concrete work today on the burn pit. Apparently Hawkeye was feeling a bit "Hollywood" and decided to leave some paw prints for posterity.
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The make right project was going to be under 3 yards. The cost for Short load charge paid for half the cost of the mixer and I get to do the job at my Very leisurely pace!
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Another small job out of the way. I make a concrete boarder so the cinder blocks for the burn pit were more stable and not leaning all over the place. Edging is getting slightly better. Still leaving a trailing mark. On to finish framing the berry garden boarder and will have 2 of the 3 projects finished.
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Finally all finished and we can order shed!
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So, at the end of the day, are you happy that you put forth the effort versus paying for the service?
I have no skills that could have made this effort 10% of what you did, but I am curious from your viewpoint.
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Any time I can reduce the load on my wallet I am going to be pleased. I wish I had been a little more in tune with what I could handle in one day!
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Well them. it sounds like a win.. Congratulations!
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Any time I can reduce the load on my wallet I am going to be pleased.
I'm the opposite, Any time I can reduce the load on my back I am going to be pleased.
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Sure you can!
The shed folks said they would not work on that slab, and I don't blame them. So my only choice since I have to do all the work my self is to put a 2 inch cap on the 19x22. Which will now be an 18.5 x 21.5 slab. About the max I can handle in one shot is a 9.5 x 5 section, that takes about 20, 60 pound bags or about 1300lbs. It will take 8 of them give or take a few inches. 2nd go round is still not pretty, but it least will be more smooth, with out the pitting.
The calculator I used missed by about 4 1/2 bags, so the 1st section had to be done in 2 stages, that will not happen again!
Finally all finished and we can order shed!
(https://i.imgur.com/lWHU9t4h.jpg)
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Rounding the turn, heading for the back nine!
In the 1st photo, far left section was 21 bags (you can just see where the line is), 2nd was 23 bags (ends right about where the mixer wheel is), 3rd was 32 bags and far right done today was 28. Will try and split the back nine into equal 66 inch sections. As we all know math is not a strong suit of mine, as witnessed by the 1st 4 sections!
I am sure it is hard to believe i have no formal training in concrete work! :pig:
(https://i.imgur.com/x3517Abh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BeqdAwPh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hYBtnD0h.jpg)
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Wanna see a picture of soreness? Scroll down...
(https://i.imgur.com/LAHqSJmh.jpg)
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One determined man right there. I hope your hot tub is in good working order.
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My days for DYI concrete are long gone. I still do small electrical jobs but anything that requires lifting more than about 20 lbs. or requires two hands is out. Left side still suffering from effects of stroke two years ago.
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I bet you did your share Hugh!
More like Cheap Screw! Heading in right now, 1st 1000mg of Ibuprofen!
One determined man right there. I hope your hot tub is in good working order.
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Not a task I would take on. My hats off to you.
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I use to have to do concrete testing, pulling cylinders, air entrainment, & slumps tests as part of my job. I was young back then. Concrete work is back breaking labor. You are a determined, and probably sore individual.
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I'm sore from just looking at the pictures.
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Your pictures make me so excited for my upcoming concrete work I need to do..... When we built my pole building garage I was paying cash and only had so much, so about a 9'x24' section got gravel instead of cement. Now that we got our new barn built and moved that equipment over into that building I am going to remove the gravel and do a 4" thick cement section to have it all be concrete. It will be where the woodshop I am setting up will go. I am looking at dry pouring the concrete though since it should minimize some of the screw up I imagine I would otherwise have trying to do it quickly and I don't need to rent or buy a cement mixer.
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I'd love to see your wood shop when it is done.
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You don't think you will have issues with dry pouring a section that big? Or are you breaking it into 3 pours?
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Got the forms in for the last 2 pours. Hope to be done by end of day Thursday. Gotta make 20lbs of Sausage Weds or i would be done then!
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You don't think you will have issues with dry pouring a section that big? Or are you breaking it into 3 pours?
I am going to do a few pours to try to simplify it for myself. The nice thing is I have a sliding door at the back so I will work my way out the door essentially.
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It is all done! To tired to go take a picture. Will post one tomorrow. Ordered the shed today!
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I'd love to see your wood shop when it is done.
Hopefully it doesn't take too long to get put together. I will be happy to take pictures of it. I just have 550 ft of goat fencing and goat pens and a hay loft that I believe my wife has given priority over it. Except for her wanting me to build my daughter a piece of furniture before really getting it set up right.
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30 to 60 day is the Est. right now! We will see how long it takes.
(https://i.imgur.com/GZQMLRhh.jpg)
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30 to 60 day is the Est. right now! We will see how long it takes.
(https://i.imgur.com/GZQMLRhh.jpg)
Looks really nice.
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Bentley, you and Kristin are much more self-sufficient and clever about the things you do than the majority of my friends. We all pay to have someone else do it. A tip of my cap to you.