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[Mudflap]

For what Bent want's to do, you guys might be overthinking this a bit. It's just occasional use, not a shop. I'm a cheap screw also and have maintained my air tools with a few drops of ATF for over 40 years. For me, moisture from my airline tells me to lube my tool and drain the compressor. Nothing more. Those filters are more relevant in painting. The smaller compressors filling up tires in trucks take longer, but will still do the job. For Bent's use it will be fine.

+1

[Brushpopper]

When I worked as a mechanic in my 20's, I used my air tools every day.  I used Marvel Mystery oil in them for lube then.  I still have all of them and they work perfectly.  Just a few drops is all you need, but cover the outlet with a rag and run it a bit after oiling.  It will make a mess if you use too much oil.  I wouldn't bother with a drier with what you're using it for.

[Bentley]

I sure do appreciate all the suggestions and help.  The point that Paul made about ice and tire sensors makes sense.  $14 for oil and a filter will not kill me, so even if a little over kill will go that route.  I know you all will think how retarded is this guy, but I still can visuleize how I attach the filter, but it all seems to come together when I get to HF and can put the filter up to a hose and have some of those quick connects in my hand.  Doubt HF will have mystery oil, but if they do will get that, otherwise regular.  And am I hearing correctly...a couple of drops around the are of the tool where it connects to the air line?  Then give the tool a few pulls of the trigger?

Also, and this is really a nube question.  The air gun, it is not like a torque wrench that you can set for X pounds?  So how do I know I am not over tighting nuts?  I realize it starts to spin when it is tight (I think), but how does it know it is X pounds?  Or am I so stupid that you do not use an air gun to put stuff on, just to take them off?

[Bentley]

And this is for you all to ponder and let me know if what I am hearing is correct.  I am reading that I could increase my capacity if I hooked another tank to mine.  My uncles have what I would guess is a VERY OLD maybe 15-20 gallon.  It does very poorly, but I think that is the engine, could I somehow hook that tank up to mine?  if I can, it will be done when it is MUCH warmer!

[mowin]

I sure do appreciate all the suggestions and help.  The point that Paul made about ice and tire sensors makes sense.  $14 for oil and a filter will not kill me, so even if a little over kill will go that route.  I know you all will think how retarded is this guy, but I still can visuleize how I attach the filter, but it all seems to come together when I get to HF and can put the filter up to a hose and have some of those quick connects in my hand.  Doubt HF will have mystery oil, but if they do will get that, otherwise regular.  And am I hearing correctly...a couple of drops around the are of the tool where it connects to the air line?  Then give the tool a few pulls of the trigger?

Also, and this is really a nube question.  The air gun, it is not like a torque wrench that you can set for X pounds?  So how do I know I am not over tighting nuts?  I realize it starts to spin when it is tight (I think), but how does it know it is X pounds?  Or am I so stupid that you do not use an air gun to put stuff on, just to take them off?

Save yourself the trouble.  I've run a lawn care business for 25 yrs.  I've  filled many a low/leaking truck tires with my little pancake compressor.  I've only had issues with my tire sensor when the idiots at the tire shop broke em changing tires.

I have used a air impact with my larger comp, but never tried using one with my little pancake unit.
Your impact will have a intake port and a exhaust port. It is not the QC air line.  The impact will probably have a "oil" or a drop of oil near the port.

And there's no adjustment for torque, except your finger, lol.  But I'm thinking the little air you have in reserve will run out quickly before any damage can be done by over tightening.  But maybe tightening by hand would be best,

[scdaf]

Thank you...but I bet you electric one is 5 times the cost of this one...

Actually, the electric one is $49.95 IF you somehow fail to catch it on sale.

[Brushpopper]

And am I hearing correctly...a couple of drops around the are of the tool where it connects to the air line?  Then give the tool a few pulls of the trigger?

Also, and this is really a nube question.  The air gun, it is not like a torque wrench that you can set for X pounds?  So how do I know I am not over tighting nuts?  I realize it starts to spin when it is tight (I think), but how does it know it is X pounds?  Or am I so stupid that you do not use an air gun to put stuff on, just to take them off?

Put a couple of drops in the air inlet before connecting the quick connect (hold the air gun upside down), hook it up and give it a couple of test runs.  On my Ingersall Rand I can adjust how tight it will go, but I'd rather hand tighten and torque to specs to be sure.  I torque the lug nuts on my truck when I rotate tires.

[Bentley]

I am really surprised, I was like SmokinPete and figured no way was it going to work, I guess I am just to much of a cynic...

It seems to work well, how long will it last...$21, well, I am probably going to use it twice a year to take two 5/8" nuts off mower blades and once a year to rotate Ram tires now that I have it and wanna save $40 every 5000 miles.  So, I will die before it does I am sure. And it will pay for itself on the 1st tire rotation.  Your hands are jut filled with oil after you are finished working with it.  Probably not  sign of great quality!

45 second video of it taking lug nuts off...It Works!

I thought I had the filter connections figured out in the store, but in my heart, knew there was no way I was getting it right on the 1st go round!  So, for you all that can look at this stuff and see what connections are need right off the bat...I guess I need a male connector to go into the top of the filter, then I need a quick connector to go into the male connector?  They do not seem to make a quick connector with a male connection, just female.

[Bentley]

What will be interesting to see in the late Spring is, can I use this thing to loosen the mower blade nut with out having to chalk the blades...If I can, that will make it a 2 minute change instead of a 15...One hand on blade the other using the gun...

[Old Smokey]

As others have said, your compressor is on the small side for an air gun. However it will work for short intervals. Just make sure you start with a full tank with the compressor not running. Set the pressure for 100 psi. The higher the pressure the more capacity you have. Also the higher the pressure the more torque your air gun will have. That said most air tools are designed to run at 90 psi. You may have to take a break to let the air compressor recover.

You definetly don't want to use a lubricator, part D. That will contaminate all of the lines downstream with oil. Then if you ever want to use a paint sprayer or air brush your air will be contaminated with oil and paint doesn't like that. Just use a few drops of air tool oil in the air inlet of your gun before each use. Not too much, a little goes a long way.

I am a retired Mac Tools distributor so I have some experience in this area. My compressor set up is a 5 hp two stage 220 volt Ingersol Rand with an 80 gallon tank.

[Bar-B-Lew]

On a side note, I used to work for several divisions of Ingersoll-Rand and had access to employee sales.  My Dad has several air tools that are now 25 years old that I bought dirt cheap back then.  I also worked for a division that made small air pumps.  He has a few of those too.  They come in handy to quickly empty his hot water heater when it goes.

[Old Smokey]

Bent... I just watched the video of you loosening lug nuts. In it you said I hope you guys don't tell me I shouldn't be putting them on with it. So I'm telling you you shoudn't be putting them on with an air gun. Even the wimpy air guns are capable of 250 ft/pounds of torque. Lug nuts should be tightened to 80-100 foot pounds depending on the manufacturers recommendations. So you can easily over torque the lug nuts. This can cause lots of problems. The best way is to use the air gun to put the lug nuts on until just barely tight then use a torque wrench to get the proper torque.

[Bentley]

It would not play sound for me so I did not think anyone heard me or when the compressor kicked back on, just went back and it did! 

Thank you!  I did tighten them, so that is par for the course!  That will never happen again! 

[mowin]

Bent... I just watched the video of you loosening lug nuts. In it you said I hope you guys don't tell me I shouldn't be putting them on with it. So I'm telling you you shoudn't be putting them on with an air gun. Even the wimpy air guns are capable of 250 ft/pounds of torque. Lug nuts should be tightened to 80-100 foot pounds depending on the manufacturers recommendations. So you can easily over torque the lug nuts. This can cause lots of problems. The best way is to use the air gun to put the lug nuts on until just barely tight then use a torque wrench to get the proper torque.

+1. 

[Bobitis]

I am really surprised, I was like SmokinPete and figured no way was it going to work, I guess I am just to much of a cynic...

It seems to work well, how long will it last...$21, well, I am probably going to use it twice a year to take two 5/8" nuts off mower blades and once a year to rotate Ram tires now that I have it and wanna save $40 every 5000 miles.  So, I will die before it does I am sure. And it will pay for itself on the 1st tire rotation.  Your hands are jut filled with oil after you are finished working with it.  Probably not  sign of great quality!

45 second video of it taking lug nuts off...It Works!

I thought I had the filter connections figured out in the store, but in my heart, knew there was no way I was getting it right on the 1st go round!  So, for you all that can look at this stuff and see what connections are need right off the bat...I guess I need a male connector to go into the top of the filter, then I need a quick connector to go into the male connector?  They do not seem to make a quick connector with a male connection, just female.

You have a couple options here Bentley.

1) The simplest is to remove the 'plug' from the drier and the tool, and use a regular pipe nipple instead. However, yer gonna wind up with a long non-flexible portion right off the tool. That may not be an issue for your purposes. It does make using the tool rather awkward to use though.
2) Your best scenario would be to have a length of hose between the tool and the drier (12" would werk but 18 would be better). This would allow you to use the tool much easier and be more useful in other situations.
3) Get a QD with a male thread and screw it into the tool. Then you could go direct to the drier, but it would still be awkward, yet dis-connectable.

Does this make sense? There have been many good ideas thrown about in the thread with the exception of one.

NEVER use box store pvc pipe in a compressed air application. NEVER! Should the pipe (or a fitting) be compromised under pressure, it will go off like a claymore! It will literally explode into a hundred razor sharp pieces. Ok, maybe not a hundred, but you get the idea (but they are razor sharp). Every pvc manufacturer states quite clearly that under no circumstances should their regular pvc be used in this application. Some do offer a product for compressed air, but it's spendy and normally special order.