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[AnyExcuse2Q]

Argh, now you guys have made me curious and I'll have to dump my pellets to check for an auger restrictor.

[Bobitis]

Does it have a restrictor rod at the beginning of the auger?

This is what makes no sense to me. From a physical point of view, the restrictor rod isn't displacing that many pellets. The rod appears to be just a tad bit smaller than the pellet diameter, so the displacement should be minimal for all intents and purposes.

 

 

My thought on it is that because of the length of some of the pellets, the rod creates a support for longer pellets to create a bridge preventing the auger to fully fill with pellets.   Could be totally wrong though.

This is where it all goes wonky on me.

The spiral feed should break up any larger pellets and negate the longer pellets. No?

[Osborn Cox]

The auger would just push them along until they get to the “tunnel” where they would get busted up, but at that point it’s too late for more to fill in to the auger.   Again, just my theory, not at all confident that I’m right.

[dshaffes]

I've got a Pro 22 and can get temp to 435-440 but takes about 15-20 minutes to get there.  I use my Traeger for smoking, baking and roasting.  When I need high temps I'll use my Weber, Egg, or gas grill. 

[Herb]

Your Pro is rated 20,000BTU. The big brother;Pro 34 is rated 36,000BTU..The differences in the burn mechanisms are: 1/ No auger restrictor in the 22 and has a7 hole burn pot.  2/ The 34 has a 9 hole pot...

If you remove the auger restrictor there will be more pellets delivered per revolution of the auger..That relates to more heat..The down side is low temperature cooking.The temperatures will be hotter and and  temp' swings will be more pronounced.  Just wanted you to know.

To remove the restrictor the hopper assembly must be removed to access auger removal..Traeger has some excellent videos on this and many more "repairs".  The restrictor is welded to the auger.

Canadian John's comments are correct in that the restrictor rod allows fewer pellets to be fed and the removal of it allows more pellets to be fed thus increasing the BTU output; higher temps. This removal of the restrictor rod topic was discussed at length 10 years ago on the PH forum. It is an easy fix if you want more BTU output. I did this mod back then and I regret it because the low temps are compromised and there are better ways to cook with higher temps. Some modern pellet units can achieve higher temps for searing but modifying a basic smoker to do this might not have the result you're looking for.... 

[Bobitis]

Your Pro is rated 20,000BTU. The big brother;Pro 34 is rated 36,000BTU..The differences in the burn mechanisms are: 1/ No auger restrictor in the 22 and has a7 hole burn pot.  2/ The 34 has a 9 hole pot...

If you remove the auger restrictor there will be more pellets delivered per revolution of the auger..That relates to more heat..The down side is low temperature cooking.The temperatures will be hotter and and  temp' swings will be more pronounced.  Just wanted you to know.

To remove the restrictor the hopper assembly must be removed to access auger removal..Traeger has some excellent videos on this and many more "repairs".  The restrictor is welded to the auger.

Canadian John's comments are correct in that the restrictor rod allows fewer pellets to be fed and the removal of it allows more pellets to be fed thus increasing the BTU output; higher temps. This removal of the restrictor rod topic was discussed at length 10 years ago on the PH forum. It is an easy fix if you want more BTU output. I did this mod back then and I regret it because the low temps are compromised and there are better ways to cook with higher temps. Some modern pellet units can achieve higher temps for searing but modifying a basic smoker to do this might not have the result you're looking for.... 

My thought as well Herb. Removing the rod should be a benefit for higher temp cooks. At the bottom end, the controller should intervene. Even at that; my controller is set on a duty cycle. Seconds on/seconds off. That would equate to flooding the pot pith pellets when trying to maintain a steady 'low' temp. Why risk it?

[Big Bear]

I'm as big of a pelletfan as anyone, but when I want high heat I go to my gasser.  Typically in a reverse sear method.

Burgers, finishing steak or tri tip or sometimes brats.

For everything else, and for me that's 95% of my cooking, it's low and slow on the Traeger.  I've never had much luck or desire running my pit that hot. 

I might just have to quote Bentley himself on know your pit and add my own twist, use the correct tool for the job.   

400 degrees is a solid showing for a stock Traeger.

DK

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[KrautBurner]

Hi I have a Pro 22 and would like to get more heat out of it if it is at all possible. The maximum temp is around 400 degrees give or take a degree or two. I put grill grates on it and the surface temp for them is 500 degrees. Is that all I'm going to get or is there anything more I can do?

what pellets are you running?

I gained 20-50* by switching from Traeger (Alder based) to Lumberjack (Oak based)
then another 30-50* by going with the "charred hickory" pellets 

80% Hickory/20% Charcoal

100% pure Hickory - Sweet to strong, heavy bacon flavor. This great flavor works well with pork, ribs, hams, poultry, and beef. The most common wood used. Good for all smoking, especially pork and ribs.

Charcoal - High BTU and classic charcoal grilled flavor. Approximately 12500Btu vs the normal wood 8500Btu.

Most likely best used for your higher temp cooks and grilling needs.

I've got no problem hitting 550-600* on my JR