Pellet Fan
All Things Considered => General Discussion--Non food Related => Topic started by: Bentley on January 03, 2018, 03:53:08 PM
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Well, I have been trying since Dec 28th to get this set up, so I know I am a wuss. Finally got it done about 30 minutes ago...I am still not sure if it will meet my needs, but I think for the primary purpose, it will. Its main purpose will be tire inflation and keeping them at proper pressures. For those that have pneumatic tires on their landscape equipment, you probably now what I mean. And the rear tractor tires, the little Black n Decker, well lets just say it was not meant for that. I was a little surprise that when I was filling up the golf cart tire to 20psi that an 8 gal tank would come back on...makes me glad I did not go for the $60 3 gal...My little B&D that I have had since the early 90's will be left in the machine shed for emergency use! It was a good little device these many years, but after filling that golf cart tire in 20 seconds instead of 2 minutes...I know he has seen better days!
I am the only person that can mount things crooked, year, after year, after year...
(https://i.imgur.com/e2YaV70h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x4OUnqnh.jpg)
Now for you guys in the know...will this 8 gal run this? All I need it to do is break a 5/8 nut free from a mower blade...I see my compressor has 4.5 cfm @90 psi and this needs 5, I just have never used air tools and don't know how big a difference that .5 cfm is?
1/2 in. Air Impact Wrench (https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-air-impact-wrench-61718.html)
(https://shop.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_25587.jpg)
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Bentley, you should be fine. I doubt that mower bolt is torqued over 80 ft./lbs. That hammer driver probably will generate 250 ft./lbs. at 5 cfm. If you haven't already bought the air impact, HF has a 110v electric one which I've had for 25 years or more and used a lot. Usually easier to find 110v than pressurized air where you need it.
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Thank you...but I bet you electric one is 5 times the cost of this one...
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Bentley, air carries moisture. You compress it into your tank and you accumulate water. You might consider a particulate filter & moisture trap at the tank outlet so you don't blow unwanted material into your tires and tools.
Then, too, the tools like an in-line oiler near the tool end.
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Uh-oh, more money, and the worst part is it all makes sense, so that makes me really know I need it....Oh well!
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Uh-oh, more money, and the worst part is it all makes sense, so that makes me really know I need it....Oh well!
My Dad releases the air out of the tank after using it claiming he does it so the moisture goes out too. Don't know how true it is but that is what he does to mitigate the issue.
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(https://i.imgur.com/KyeSAVAh.jpg)
Another option, I saw that release valve when I was putting wheels on. I need to immediately make sign and tape on wall or that will never get done.
Would be nice if they would tell you which to buy....Now I just have to find and figure out how A, B & C get attached to ?
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Lets see I have an air intake filter on the compressor, so I am confused about B (but I have no idea what kind of filter they are talking about), I have a regulator on the unit itself (so again, lost on C). And I cant even find D!
Paul, you should be pimp slapped for this! I cant figure out what I need or where they go! Do you buy a small little 3/8 hose and connect this stuff to it before it goes into my 30 foot wall hose?
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Uh-oh, more money, and the worst part is it all makes sense, so that makes me really know I need it....Oh well!
My Dad releases the air out of the tank after using it claiming he does it so the moisture goes out too. Don't know how true it is but that is what he does to mitigate the issue.
+1 on dumping air out when done.
Is this something you are going to use 1-2 times a week or month? I would not go to all that trouble for a home use air compressor that you can just drain each time. I have one and use it 5-10 times a year. I just just buy quick connects for the hose ends and add a few drops of air oil into the air tool before use and then make sure I drain air out when done. If I use the tool for several hrs I will disconnect and add some more oil if using that much. Most of the time it is used for short nail job. :2cents:
If you spends hrs a day using it then yes install the filters and oil system.
Mudflap
MOD: I have been using mine for 5 yrs works great.
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you won't need to drain the tank much in the winter months but in the hot humid summer yes. as for an oiler just buy a can of air tool oil and give the gun a little squirt every now and then, just shoot it into where the hose goes on.
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I will use it for tire inflation a lot, the air gun, maybe twice a year to change mower blades and maybe once a year to rotate tires...If it will even break the lugs free. I guess moisture in tires does not really matter!
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OK, now I gotta go get some air oil...
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Thanks for all the help...The Tahoe, Ram and golf cart tires were all low in this cold weather, so all three of them are now at correct pressure...so this thing is already working!
Yeah, those quick connect things are where it is at for switching stuff around!
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What I need to hear. I had a Friend tell me I needed a minimum of a 30 gal and 3 Hp to run tools...So I kind of knew I was maybe stretching it for that.
I figure I go into HF, ask if this gun will work on this unit, if they say no, end of story. If they say yes, I will be noting who I speak with and have assurances I can bring it back if it does not. I read reviews of guys that have my size compressor and said it does not work, then saw that they were trying to use 1/4 inch hose. Then read others that said with pressure set right and 3/8 hose it works fine!
you're wishful thinking about that comp running that gun.
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I have a small compressor that size, no problem for short blasts with an impact. I can take off 5 lug nuts on a small car before it needs to pump up again. I used to do my lawn mower with a very small pancake compressor. you should be ok with that one.
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JaJaJa...and folks wonder why I have had to experience stuff like this to learn...I was gonna wait till late spring when I would start up the mower...but now I am gonna go buy it tomorrow just cuz I wanna see!
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I guess moisture in tires does not really matter!
Tire pressure sending units don't like ice.
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So much to swallow...
Motor HP matters as much as tank size. HP fills the tank quicker. Tank size determines how often the tank needs recharging.
Compressing air creates moisture regardless of temp. The amount is subject to physics at play.
Unless yer Boeing, you'll never need an oiler in your line. A drier is always a good idea and they're cheap at Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-30252A-Water-Separator-Outlet/dp/B002GQ3SUA/ref=sr_1_sc_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1515026613&sr=8-10-spell&keywords=compresed+air+dryer
It's really easy to overkill a compressed air system. I have 10G 5 HP compressor in storage and it's been there for years. When I was actively using it, it never had any options added to it and never failed. And it won't loosen a lug nut without first breaking it loose with a wrench.
It's always a good idea to drain the tank after every use. The moisture will create rust that clogs everything up. Open the drain valve and look at the floor afterwards. That's all the proof you'll ever need.
I have an inline drier I use with my mini compressor as I use it for blowing off electrical components (see above) and it works quite well. Do yer tires care about some moisture in them? Likely not. Regardless, removing the moisture is a good idea.
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Just don't remove the air when a dog is around. Our dog took off out the garage and ran up the street. Fortunately, someone called us. She never ran away before but the sound of the air coming out of the compressor when being drained either spooked her or hurt her ears.
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My career has been air compressors from small up to 50 HP rotary screw . my advise is to purchase some air tool oil and add a few drops before using the impact. Make sure the compressor is at maximum pressure and you should be fine. When finished add a couple drops to the air tool oil and reconnect the hose. Pull the trigger briefly to suck the oil into the impact. This keeps a coating of oil in the air motor to prevent rusting between uses. Do not waste your money on the rest as your just airing tires. Drain the tank to remove moisture. Your good to go...
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I just don't know this stuff guys, never had a compressor!
So where does one attach this dryer? Do I attach it to the out put, where the hose is currently attached, then attach the hose line to it?
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FMR...
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Air Tool Oil, 16oz $3.79...well that is a bright spot! :pig:
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I just don't know this stuff guys, never had a compressor!
So where does one attach this dryer? Do I attach it to the out put, where the hose is currently attached, then attach the hose line to it?
The dryer should be away from the compressor - far enough to allow the compressed air in the line to cool enough to allow the moisture to condense and be collected with the dryer..
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I saw in the one photo in Bob's link that it was right about where the air tool went on, that makes sense, I seem to have trouble visualizing these things. Makes sense and I certainly will add it for that extra protection!
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I have a small compressor that size, no problem for short blasts with an impact. I can take off 5 lug nuts on a small car before it needs to pump up again. I used to do my lawn mower with a very small pancake compressor. you should be ok with that one.
Having a high quality air gun is worth its weight in gold, breaks nuts loose quicker - which means using less air to get the job done.. I have a 20 plus year old Ingersol Rand 2131 that keeps on ticking.
1/4 line is a little restricting for some applications, to overcome this I prefer to regulate the air pressure between 100 and 120psi - personal preference.. out of the compressor.
To increase 'air storage capacity' I have seen shops use 'pvc' pipe - example: 3 to 4 inch pipe down the length of their shop and make the 'air' drops from the PVC to the work stations - using the correct pipe thread adapters and copper pipe for the drop - properly secured, and the dryers mounted right at the quick connect for the air line. This is in inexpensive way to provide longer 'burst' times.(tank capacity)
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I saw in the one photo in Bob's link that it was right about where the air tool went on, that makes sense, I seem to have trouble visualizing these things. Makes sense and I certainly will add it for that extra protection!
attaching a drier directly to the compressor usually does not collect much condensation - because the air passing through it is too warm for it to condense and be collected in the drier.
Inexpensive idea - which works - run a length of air hose out of compressor(with quick disconnects), lay on cool floor, attach to a dryer, attach final hose, attach to tool...
(for extended use - like for painting - I have had very good success running the hose out of the compressor 'coiled' in a 5 gal pail of ice water and the drier mounted just after that.)
For your intended use - just mount the drier away from the compressor and you will be golden..
ie.. air tool oil - a few drops in the tool regularly, but not enough to make a mess at the exhaust port..
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Air line drier/filter
Something along these lines..
https://www.harborfreight.com/mini-air-line-filter-68225.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-compact-air-filter-68230.html
Or with regulator
https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-air-line-filter-regulator-with-gauge-68228.html
These are most everywhere - big box lumber - Menards, Lowes, Home Depot etc, auto parts stores, Tool stores
Just keep it simple.. :clap:
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For what Bent want's to do, you guys might be overthinking this a bit. It's just occasional use, not a shop. I'm a cheap screw also and have maintained my air tools with a few drops of ATF for over 40 years. For me, moisture from my airline tells me to lube my tool and drain the compressor. Nothing more. Those filters are more relevant in painting. The smaller compressors filling up tires in trucks take longer, but will still do the job. For Bent's use it will be fine.
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For what Bent want's to do, you guys might be overthinking this a bit. It's just occasional use, not a shop. I'm a cheap screw also and have maintained my air tools with a few drops of ATF for over 40 years. For me, moisture from my airline tells me to lube my tool and drain the compressor. Nothing more. Those filters are more relevant in painting. The smaller compressors filling up tires in trucks take longer, but will still do the job. For Bent's use it will be fine.
I totally agree..
(as much as I hate to admit it..) :(
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For what Bent want's to do, you guys might be overthinking this a bit. It's just occasional use, not a shop. I'm a cheap screw also and have maintained my air tools with a few drops of ATF for over 40 years. For me, moisture from my airline tells me to lube my tool and drain the compressor. Nothing more. Those filters are more relevant in painting. The smaller compressors filling up tires in trucks take longer, but will still do the job. For Bent's use it will be fine.
+1
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When I worked as a mechanic in my 20's, I used my air tools every day. I used Marvel Mystery oil in them for lube then. I still have all of them and they work perfectly. Just a few drops is all you need, but cover the outlet with a rag and run it a bit after oiling. It will make a mess if you use too much oil. I wouldn't bother with a drier with what you're using it for.
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I sure do appreciate all the suggestions and help. The point that Paul made about ice and tire sensors makes sense. $14 for oil and a filter will not kill me, so even if a little over kill will go that route. I know you all will think how retarded is this guy, but I still can visuleize how I attach the filter, but it all seems to come together when I get to HF and can put the filter up to a hose and have some of those quick connects in my hand. Doubt HF will have mystery oil, but if they do will get that, otherwise regular. And am I hearing correctly...a couple of drops around the are of the tool where it connects to the air line? Then give the tool a few pulls of the trigger?
Also, and this is really a nube question. The air gun, it is not like a torque wrench that you can set for X pounds? So how do I know I am not over tighting nuts? I realize it starts to spin when it is tight (I think), but how does it know it is X pounds? Or am I so stupid that you do not use an air gun to put stuff on, just to take them off?
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And this is for you all to ponder and let me know if what I am hearing is correct. I am reading that I could increase my capacity if I hooked another tank to mine. My uncles have what I would guess is a VERY OLD maybe 15-20 gallon. It does very poorly, but I think that is the engine, could I somehow hook that tank up to mine? if I can, it will be done when it is MUCH warmer!
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I sure do appreciate all the suggestions and help. The point that Paul made about ice and tire sensors makes sense. $14 for oil and a filter will not kill me, so even if a little over kill will go that route. I know you all will think how retarded is this guy, but I still can visuleize how I attach the filter, but it all seems to come together when I get to HF and can put the filter up to a hose and have some of those quick connects in my hand. Doubt HF will have mystery oil, but if they do will get that, otherwise regular. And am I hearing correctly...a couple of drops around the are of the tool where it connects to the air line? Then give the tool a few pulls of the trigger?
Also, and this is really a nube question. The air gun, it is not like a torque wrench that you can set for X pounds? So how do I know I am not over tighting nuts? I realize it starts to spin when it is tight (I think), but how does it know it is X pounds? Or am I so stupid that you do not use an air gun to put stuff on, just to take them off?
Save yourself the trouble. I've run a lawn care business for 25 yrs. I've filled many a low/leaking truck tires with my little pancake compressor. I've only had issues with my tire sensor when the idiots at the tire shop broke em changing tires.
I have used a air impact with my larger comp, but never tried using one with my little pancake unit.
Your impact will have a intake port and a exhaust port. It is not the QC air line. The impact will probably have a "oil" or a drop of oil near the port.
And there's no adjustment for torque, except your finger, lol. But I'm thinking the little air you have in reserve will run out quickly before any damage can be done by over tightening. But maybe tightening by hand would be best,
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Thank you...but I bet you electric one is 5 times the cost of this one...
Actually, the electric one is $49.95 IF you somehow fail to catch it on sale.
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And am I hearing correctly...a couple of drops around the are of the tool where it connects to the air line? Then give the tool a few pulls of the trigger?
Also, and this is really a nube question. The air gun, it is not like a torque wrench that you can set for X pounds? So how do I know I am not over tighting nuts? I realize it starts to spin when it is tight (I think), but how does it know it is X pounds? Or am I so stupid that you do not use an air gun to put stuff on, just to take them off?
Put a couple of drops in the air inlet before connecting the quick connect (hold the air gun upside down), hook it up and give it a couple of test runs. On my Ingersall Rand I can adjust how tight it will go, but I'd rather hand tighten and torque to specs to be sure. I torque the lug nuts on my truck when I rotate tires.
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I am really surprised, I was like SmokinPete and figured no way was it going to work, I guess I am just to much of a cynic...
It seems to work well, how long will it last...$21, well, I am probably going to use it twice a year to take two 5/8" nuts off mower blades and once a year to rotate Ram tires now that I have it and wanna save $40 every 5000 miles. So, I will die before it does I am sure. And it will pay for itself on the 1st tire rotation. Your hands are jut filled with oil after you are finished working with it. Probably not sign of great quality!
45 second video of it taking lug nuts off...It Works! (https://youtu.be/oosyLGqR2aE)
I thought I had the filter connections figured out in the store, but in my heart, knew there was no way I was getting it right on the 1st go round! So, for you all that can look at this stuff and see what connections are need right off the bat...I guess I need a male connector to go into the top of the filter, then I need a quick connector to go into the male connector? They do not seem to make a quick connector with a male connection, just female.
(https://i.imgur.com/m1uqdO3h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UYWWKgbh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kxv1qZNh.jpg)
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What will be interesting to see in the late Spring is, can I use this thing to loosen the mower blade nut with out having to chalk the blades...If I can, that will make it a 2 minute change instead of a 15...One hand on blade the other using the gun...
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As others have said, your compressor is on the small side for an air gun. However it will work for short intervals. Just make sure you start with a full tank with the compressor not running. Set the pressure for 100 psi. The higher the pressure the more capacity you have. Also the higher the pressure the more torque your air gun will have. That said most air tools are designed to run at 90 psi. You may have to take a break to let the air compressor recover.
You definetly don't want to use a lubricator, part D. That will contaminate all of the lines downstream with oil. Then if you ever want to use a paint sprayer or air brush your air will be contaminated with oil and paint doesn't like that. Just use a few drops of air tool oil in the air inlet of your gun before each use. Not too much, a little goes a long way.
I am a retired Mac Tools distributor so I have some experience in this area. My compressor set up is a 5 hp two stage 220 volt Ingersol Rand with an 80 gallon tank.
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On a side note, I used to work for several divisions of Ingersoll-Rand and had access to employee sales. My Dad has several air tools that are now 25 years old that I bought dirt cheap back then. I also worked for a division that made small air pumps. He has a few of those too. They come in handy to quickly empty his hot water heater when it goes.
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Bent... I just watched the video of you loosening lug nuts. In it you said I hope you guys don't tell me I shouldn't be putting them on with it. So I'm telling you you shoudn't be putting them on with an air gun. Even the wimpy air guns are capable of 250 ft/pounds of torque. Lug nuts should be tightened to 80-100 foot pounds depending on the manufacturers recommendations. So you can easily over torque the lug nuts. This can cause lots of problems. The best way is to use the air gun to put the lug nuts on until just barely tight then use a torque wrench to get the proper torque.
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It would not play sound for me so I did not think anyone heard me or when the compressor kicked back on, just went back and it did!
Thank you! I did tighten them, so that is par for the course! That will never happen again!
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Bent... I just watched the video of you loosening lug nuts. In it you said I hope you guys don't tell me I shouldn't be putting them on with it. So I'm telling you you shoudn't be putting them on with an air gun. Even the wimpy air guns are capable of 250 ft/pounds of torque. Lug nuts should be tightened to 80-100 foot pounds depending on the manufacturers recommendations. So you can easily over torque the lug nuts. This can cause lots of problems. The best way is to use the air gun to put the lug nuts on until just barely tight then use a torque wrench to get the proper torque.
+1.
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I am really surprised, I was like SmokinPete and figured no way was it going to work, I guess I am just to much of a cynic...
It seems to work well, how long will it last...$21, well, I am probably going to use it twice a year to take two 5/8" nuts off mower blades and once a year to rotate Ram tires now that I have it and wanna save $40 every 5000 miles. So, I will die before it does I am sure. And it will pay for itself on the 1st tire rotation. Your hands are jut filled with oil after you are finished working with it. Probably not sign of great quality!
45 second video of it taking lug nuts off...It Works! (https://youtu.be/oosyLGqR2aE)
I thought I had the filter connections figured out in the store, but in my heart, knew there was no way I was getting it right on the 1st go round! So, for you all that can look at this stuff and see what connections are need right off the bat...I guess I need a male connector to go into the top of the filter, then I need a quick connector to go into the male connector? They do not seem to make a quick connector with a male connection, just female.
(https://i.imgur.com/m1uqdO3h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UYWWKgbh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kxv1qZNh.jpg)
You have a couple options here Bentley.
1) The simplest is to remove the 'plug' from the drier and the tool, and use a regular pipe nipple instead. However, yer gonna wind up with a long non-flexible portion right off the tool. That may not be an issue for your purposes. It does make using the tool rather awkward to use though.
2) Your best scenario would be to have a length of hose between the tool and the drier (12" would werk but 18 would be better). This would allow you to use the tool much easier and be more useful in other situations.
3) Get a QD with a male thread and screw it into the tool. Then you could go direct to the drier, but it would still be awkward, yet dis-connectable.
Does this make sense? There have been many good ideas thrown about in the thread with the exception of one.
NEVER use box store pvc pipe in a compressed air application. NEVER! Should the pipe (or a fitting) be compromised under pressure, it will go off like a claymore! It will literally explode into a hundred razor sharp pieces. Ok, maybe not a hundred, but you get the idea (but they are razor sharp). Every pvc manufacturer states quite clearly that under no circumstances should their regular pvc be used in this application. Some do offer a product for compressed air, but it's spendy and normally special order.
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Bent... I just watched the video of you loosening lug nuts. In it you said I hope you guys don't tell me I shouldn't be putting them on with it. So I'm telling you you shoudn't be putting them on with an air gun. Even the wimpy air guns are capable of 250 ft/pounds of torque. Lug nuts should be tightened to 80-100 foot pounds depending on the manufacturers recommendations. So you can easily over torque the lug nuts. This can cause lots of problems. The best way is to use the air gun to put the lug nuts on until just barely tight then use a torque wrench to get the proper torque.
+1.
+2
And in the correct sequence.
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I wont lie, you all know I like to stir it up, but I also wanna learn in this instance. As looking at this chart, TravlinMan's suggestion do make sense, and these charts seem to say yes to me. So as always, someone please point out my errors...
My tank I believe has an operating pressure of 125psi, I see the gauge goes to about 150psi, but you are not suppose to run it there, I get that. So if my tank has a 150psi max give or take, how could it ever produce enough psi to burst a 3 or 4 inch PVC pipe?
To increase 'air storage capacity' I have seen shops use 'pvc' pipe - example: 3 to 4 inch pipe down the length of their shop and make the 'air' drops from the PVC to the work stations
(https://i.imgur.com/Jw52Ce6h.jpg)
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It would not play sound for me so I did not think anyone heard me or when the compressor kicked back on, just went back and it did!
Thank you! I did tighten them, so that is par for the course! That will never happen again!
I think that particular gun and compressor combo is not capable of any damage. HF has torque wrenches on sale for $10 that are more than adequate for lug nuts.
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I wont lie, you all know I like to stir it up, but I also wanna learn in this instance. As looking at this chart, TravlinMan's suggestion do make sense, and these charts seem to say yes to me. So as always, someone please point out my errors...
My tank I believe has an operating pressure of 125psi, I see the gauge goes to about 150psi, but you are not suppose to run it there, I get that. So if my tank has a 150psi max give or take, how could it ever produce enough psi to burst a 3 or 4 inch PVC pipe?
To increase 'air storage capacity' I have seen shops use 'pvc' pipe - example: 3 to 4 inch pipe down the length of their shop and make the 'air' drops from the PVC to the work stations
(https://i.imgur.com/Jw52Ce6h.jpg)
The problem I see using PVC isn't the burst strength, but the damage from an impact.
I've seen it happen. Worked fine until it was hit . Then it was like Bobitis said. Pieces every where.
Luck was, no one got hurt.
I would also ditch the inline lubricator. If you have oil all over after using it, it's over oiling. As others have said, a couple drops in the inlet is all it takes.
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I guess I can see that...but I take it a step further and say...lets not use tools at all, cus someone might use it wrong and the socket flys off the gun and goes through someone head...Where does it stop?
I have no oiler, the gun had a small port to fill with oil, did not say put x amount, just said add oil...I would say it took maybe 2 TBS to fill it. One of the positive reviews I read was from a guy that said he thought it was a good impact wrench, but ware gloves if you don't want oil all over your hands. He was right. The only thing I am adding is the moisture filter, as it just makes sense to me, but I may not worry about it till summer comes and the humidity comes back, it is dryer then a popcorn...back here right now. The dew point was a negative the other day, which I did not think was even possible...
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The PVC reference is based on 'shop/regulated' pressure usually between 90 to 100psi, I would not recommend running compressor pressure into PVC..
Compressor Max Pressure: Single stage - 100 to 125psi - the most common air compressor sold
2 stage - 150 to 175psi - primarily used in industrial and commercial applications
Gauges, like a speedometer in a car, generally show the upper limits greater than your normal working pressure.
The single stage compressors generally loose a lot of 'efficiency' much past 130 to 150psi, which is why most 'single stage' units are mechanically regulated to 125psi max at shut off and normally on somewhere between 105 to 110psi
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I guess I can see that...but I take it a step further and say...lets not use tools at all, cus someone might use it wrong and the socket flys off the gun and goes through someone head...Where does it stop?
I have no oiler, the gun had a small port to fill with oil, did not say put x amount, just said add oil...I would say it took maybe 2 TBS to fill it. One of the positive reviews I read was from a guy that said he thought it was a good impact wrench, but ware gloves if you don't want oil all over your hands. He was right. The only thing I am adding is the moisture filter, as it just makes sense to me, but I may not worry about it till summer comes and the humidity comes back, it is dryer then a popcorn...back here right now. The dew point was a negative the other day, which I did not think was even possible...
IE: oiling the air gun - flip it upside down, air hose off, add a few drops of oil in the air hose hose nipple with the trigger open, release trigger, connect air line, give the trigger a quick depress and let up.. Tool oiled.. Easy Peasy.. :clap:
This lubricates the air vanes in the tool - similar in concept to a two cycle motor..
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I wont lie, you all know I like to stir it up, but I also wanna learn in this instance. As looking at this chart, TravlinMan's suggestion do make sense, and these charts seem to say yes to me. So as always, someone please point out my errors...
My tank I believe has an operating pressure of 125psi, I see the gauge goes to about 150psi, but you are not suppose to run it there, I get that. So if my tank has a 150psi max give or take, how could it ever produce enough psi to burst a 3 or 4 inch PVC pipe?
To increase 'air storage capacity' I have seen shops use 'pvc' pipe - example: 3 to 4 inch pipe down the length of their shop and make the 'air' drops from the PVC to the work stations
(https://i.imgur.com/Jw52Ce6h.jpg)
I should hsve been a little more clear. It's the possibility of external damage. If something smack it hard enough, it's bad juju.
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Bent, if you put 2 tea spoons of oil in that gun, you added WAY to much oil. That amount of oil would last you a couple yrs. Few drops is all you need. You won't need gloves.
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OK, but you all do realize there is a place on the tool to add oil? Now it does not say add 2 drops, or add 20 drops, or fill till it will not take any more oil (that is what I did). I get put a couple of drops where the air comes into the gun too, I am doing that. Do I just drain the oil out of this port and not use it anymore?
(https://i.imgur.com/va96QS4h.jpg)
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You know when you have too much oil in one, if/when it starts blowing all over out the exhaust ports...
Not sure why they put a oil port in there, a drop or two in the air intake every couple times you use it will do the trick.
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Right! Only a few drops in the oil port from now on, and a couple in the air intake before each use!
Thanks for this! Not sure if it is what you meant exactly, but it is what I took it to mean and it works. 3 feet was the shortest they had.
And thank you all for making this process much easier! Lets see how long before that filter changes color?
2) Your best scenario would be to have a length of hose between the tool and the drier (12" would werk but 18 would be better). This would allow you to use the tool much easier and be more useful in other situations.
(https://i.imgur.com/CMMlWwih.jpg)
Heck, how many website can you learn about cooking, play Fantasy Football, share with others how to enhance cooking with 100% Hardwood Pellets, get info about College Football, pray for friends, see new gadgets we might use in action, learn how to cure meat...and set up a cheap air compressor with air wrench? Probably 100's, but I will continue to live in my own little world! :pig:
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Pelletsportool Fan
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Sorry... A little late the this thread today I've been busy. As far as using PVC for airlines a lot of people do it but it's definetly not recommended. Here's a discussion about it on GarageJournal:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60109
BTW Garage Journal is a great resource for all things garage/shop related. Kind of like PelletFan is for pellet cooking.
If you do decide to use PVC (which I definetly don't recommend) at least use schedule 80.
As far as oiling an air tool, over oiling can cause more damage than under oiling. Air tools have vanes in them that are turned by air pressure which causes the tool to spin. They are usually made of a composit material. They can become soaked with oil which renders the tool useless. In an expensive air tool they can be replaced. In a cheap tool you just throw it away and buy another cheap one.
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I have no plans to use the PVC, my set up is complete. I just could not figure out why it was an issue .
I was looking at air ratchets? But I figured that the stuff that I use a wrench or ratchet on I have enough trouble just getting the wrench into it, how am I gonna get this big thing in there. Nailers, so cool! Play the tape through, when was the last time you used a stapler? Air hammer, don't even know what it does...don't paint. Air powdered grinder, drill, screwdriver...already have electric ones...
It is nice to be able to fill most tires in about 20 seconds as opposed to 2 minutes, and to be able to see a fairly accurate psi at the same time. Amazing what you think is normal operating procedure. I will start rotating my tires regularly, so that impact wrench is going to pay for itself in the 1st year.
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I have no plans to use the PVC, my set up is complete. I just could not figure out why it was an issue .
I was looking at air ratchets? But I figured that the stuff that I use a wrench or ratchet on I have enough trouble just getting the wrench into it, how am I gonna get this big thing in there. Nailers, so cool! Play the tape through, when was the last time you used a stapler? Air hammer, don't even know what it does...don't paint. Air powdered grinder, drill, screwdriver...already have electric ones...
It is nice to be able to fill most tires in about 20 seconds as opposed to 2 minutes, and to be able to see a fairly accurate psi at the same time. Amazing what you think is normal operating procedure. I will start rotating my tires regularly, so that impact wrench is going to pay for itself in the 1st year.
My earlier suggestion was based on the size of the tank on your compressor, if you find you exhaust the air too quickly in your compressors tank - The PVC idea is an inexpensive option to increase the 'storage' of your compressor. I believe your setup will serve you very well, especially for tire inflation, blowing things out and intermittent air gun use.. I do not have any experience with your model air gun, but if it has enough 'kahoneys', it should bust things loose quickly and not require a sustained use of air..
Nice looking setup Bentley.. :cool:
It should serve you well for many years...
..my story - truncated...
In the late '70's I bought a 1hp Sears compressor, served very well and pretty much worked it into the ground.. in the late '80's I went a little overboard with its replacement - an 80 gallon horizontal 7.5hp 2 stage single phase industrial unit. Sits in the basement to the house, garage is quiet, compressor stays warm in winter.. :clap:
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I was looking at air ratchets?
Air ratchets can be VERY painful if you've never used one. Probably why my hands hurt so bad these days. They torque in the direction you don't want them to and smash fingers. I have an ancient Ingersall Rand that works like an impact wrench. Wasn't good for disassembly but was great for re-assembly of small stuff.
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I think more air capacity can only be a good thing.
So my next endeavor will be to see if this tank can be attached to my set up. Since I know nothing about compressors, I do not know if I have the power with 2hp to fill both? Or does power not matter with compressed air, it is simply a matter of more time to fill 38 gallons as opposed to 8 gallons? Physics was not my strong point! I am guessing at the size of this tank, was to cold (18°) out to do more then take picture and get back in truck.
What I will need to be able to do is have the aux tank set up with quick releases. If that can't be done, I do not want to mess with it. I do not plan on this set up being portable, but worst case scenario, if I need to take my compressor somewhere right now I could.
So time to start doing some research!
My earlier suggestion was based on the size of the tank on your compressor, if you find you exhaust the air too quickly in your compressors tank - The PVC idea is an inexpensive option to increase the 'storage' of your compressor.
(https://i.imgur.com/15zUwdYh.jpg)
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Google 'connect two air compressors' and you'll see that it's far beyond your money and time. :2cents:
Why do you think that a larger tank will get you better results for your application? Seems to me yer over thinking it (heck, we all do).
Larger capacity only means you can use a tool for a longer period of time before the motor kicks back in. Painting a car? Bigger is better. Yet it all boils down to what the motor is capable of. Once the tank is empty, the motor has to fill it. 2 hp will fill a 50g tank in 'x' minutes. 5 hp will fill it much faster.
What yer gonna get out of the whole ordeal is yer recovery rate. 2 minutes for a 5g tank, or 4 minutes for 10g (not actual but mathematically correct). In other words... your compressor will run a minute for 5g, or 2 for 10. The only difference is the motor run time and frequency. Do you want to wait one minute or two before filling?
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I wanted to get rid of motor on top and just use the tank, but maybe you are right...Anyway, I will use it as is for the time being!
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(https://i.imgur.com/15zUwdYh.jpg)
My dad had a compressor like that when I was a boy. It was half wore out then and finally died about 10 years ago. I'm 54 now. Notice the EXTREMELY child safe exposed pulleys and V-belt. I was taught to respect it at a very young age and thanks to that I still have all my fingers!
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This thread is hilarious.
Some comments so complicated for a such a small, occasional use setup :)
Glad you got it setup!
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An update.
This proved to be somewhat of an accurate statement. It runs the gun and you saw the video, but I was rotating tires today, and it would not budge the passenger side tires. So it is hit and miss! Just hope it will loosen the dang nut on the mower!
you're wishful thinking about that comp running that gun .
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Did you have a full compressor to start? If you did then you might need a breaker bar and maybe a cheater pipe. Break them loose and run them off with the impact. A cheater pipe gives you more leverage to break them loose. Force times lever arm = torque. The longer the arm, the less the force. I've had to stand on one and bounce to get some loose. Rotate tires and torque to 110 to 120 foot pounds it you've got half inch studs. All Dodge trucks have them to my knowledge. And put a little grease or lube of some sort on the studs.
Most tire places run very high pressure for their impacts. They then over tighten the lugs, which can warp your rotors.
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Wow! If it is supposed to be 110lbs, I got some tighting to do right now!
Yeah, once I broke them free, it spun them right off!
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Use some lube on the threads. 110 ought to be all you need. That's what I do my F150 at. 110 ft/lbs ain't much for a svelte young man such as yourself, if I remember your product review of the Firecraft Q-450 correctly!