Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[okie smokie]

While replacing the starter rod on my GS last month, I noted a rust spot adjacent to the cutout for the hot rod.  Finally got a good day to sand and repaint it.  Used Rustoleum High Heat Black.  Here are the pre and post.  Two coats and done.   

[okie smokie]

I really don't think that was an extra-hot spot.  The hatch cover was not affected.  Just a poor finish job to begin with.

[KNIGHTDAD]

I really don't think that was an extra-hot spot.  The hatch cover was not affected.  Just a poor finish job to begin with.

The hatch is protected by a Nomex mat on the inside.

[okie smokie]

I really don't think that was an extra-hot spot.  The hatch cover was not affected.  Just a poor finish job to begin with.

The hatch is protected by a Nomex mat on the inside.

True.  Basing my comment on the fact that this appears to be the only spot of its kind.  I've watched the fire pot and deflector before while on and the flame pattern seems to be uniform around the deflector.  Will keep an eye on the bottom since the repair and check surface temps while on high heat cooks.  If that area is much hotter, will consult with Tim at Blaz'n.  Could be that the flame could be concentrated more in this area because of the shape of the deflector and/or it's support arms? But most likely it is due to a weak spot in the original finish.  Will try to document soon.

[okie smokie]

Stand by.  Will get back to this thread after completing my research. 

[okie smokie]

Stand by.  Will get back to this thread after completing my research.

Did a high heat burn yesterday.  Results actually confirm that this area gets much hotter.  So it is not a flaw in the powder coating.  After I inspected the ash pattern around the deflector plate I determined that it was the deflector plate with its umbrella shape that is creating a downdraft on the flame pattern.  For some reason it seems that there is uneven distribution of the flame and heat to the area involved.  Not sure whether it is due to the umbrella shape (curved downward) or in part due to the strut pattern under it but that is the culprit.  I wrote to Tim at Blaz'n and he that they had tested different patterns of deflectors and that this gave the best overall results for temp distribution etc.  But that he would bring it up again.
My testing revealed that the temp reaches over 620* at the area involved on the bottom, while on the other adjacent areas it is much cooler, and is only 288 on the opposite end of the service plate, on the outside.  Looking inside after cool down shows that the same area inside is devoid of ash in a pattern that matches the affect spot on the underside. See pics below: I plan to construct a flat deflector plate and recheck.  Will go for SS, thick, and four SS bolts for legs.  Not sure if square or round.  Any advice appreciated. 
 

[KNIGHTDAD]

 I’ve noticed more acclamation of ash on one side of the pot. That would lead one to think the auger is spitting them out on that side, makes sense since it’s a screw. If that’s the case it would produce more heat in that zone.

[okie smokie]

I’ve noticed more acclamation of ash on one side of the pot. That would lead one to think the auger is spitting them out on that side, makes sense since it’s a screw. If that’s the case it would produce more heat in that zone.

The auger just dumps the pellets and they fall down to the bottom of the cup.  It is possible that the airflow may be eccentric but whatever, it is consistently to the same area with every cook. I am going to buy a SS plate 3/16" thick and 9 x 9 " and use SS long bolts for legs and see if it works for this unit instead of the "umbrella". If I can distribute the heat uniformly without burning the bottom, I will be happy.  620* on the outside of the bottom is just too xxxx hot and not safe.  When I get the mod made and ready, will get some picks and start testing.  If Tim wants to advise another solution, I am open to that also. 

[KNIGHTDAD]

I wonder if drilling small holes in the original deflector would help?  It would allow some of the heat to escape upwards instead of all being deflected down and out. On my GS the coolest temps at grate level are in the center, temps get progressively hotter to outsides which range between10-15* hotter.

[Bar-B-Lew]

I wonder if drilling small holes in the original deflector would help?  It would allow some of the heat to escape upwards instead of all being deflected down and out. On my GS the coolest temps at grate level are in the center, temps get progressively hotter to outsides which range between10-15* hotter.

It may be easier to remove it and replace with something else like it sounds like he is going to try.  I have not paid too close attention to mine, but I can see what he is showing.

[okie smokie]

I wonder if drilling small holes in the original deflector would help?  It would allow some of the heat to escape upwards instead of all being deflected down and out. On my GS the coolest temps at grate level are in the center, temps get progressively hotter to outsides which range between10-15* hotter.

It may be easier to remove it and replace with something else like it sounds like he is going to try.  I have not paid too close attention to mine, but I can see what he is showing.

The original measures 8" round.  The struts underneath channel the flame forward to some extent.  I do not wish to deform or alter the original.  I have two choices to pursue:
1.  Leave original deflector and insert a baffle between the flame and the affected floor area.  could use just a piece of sheet steel laid against the side of the tunnel on the floor.  elevated by 1/4 inch air space (just use nuts as spacers).  Probably the easiest thing to try and it would probably work fine. However, I don't really like the idea of deflecting heat downward onto the structures and tunnel.  Seems like it would waste energy and accelerate decay. 
2.  Have ordered 9" square of 3/16" thick SS.  Will mount 1 hex head SS bolt 5/16" and 6 inches long on each corner of the sheet and use it as a standard 4 legged deflector. This is about the height of the dome of the current deflector. (I first thought of using 3/8" bolts but decided that it would be overkill).  Will then do test runs and adjust the position as I did with my old Traeger deflector to get the most even heat distribution.  I suspect it will work fine.  I will remember to plug the holes where the original deflector is mounted, so as not to lose air flow to the firepot. Will report after completed. Will take a while to get the stuff.

[Mudflap]

Could just get 2 fire bricks and lay on each side of fire pot.

Mudflap

[Canadian John]

 I like Mudflaps idea. There are 1/2 thickness fire bricks that may work well..That or a shield lying on the bottom with an air space. Thinking ~ 3/8".

[okie smokie]

Could just get 2 fire bricks and lay on each side of fire pot.

Mudflap

May end up doing the fire bricks but will go ahead with the new mod since parts are ordered.  One of my goals is to deflect the flame laterally instead of downward. But a good idea Mudflap.  (similar to what I meant to do with sheet metal and spacers).

[Canadian John]

 I would think the manufacturer would be interested in resolving the hot spot issue.. Most people never look under their pit and would end up with some heavy duty rust.... In a way it was a good thing to have your igniter fail.