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[Canadian John]

 
 There is no heat control using a fire pit resulting in a chance of damaging the cast iron; cracks and or warpage. The same sort of  damage has been reported using self cleaning ovens.. Is it worth the risk?

 For build up on the outside, a scraper should easily remove most of it. Then if you want to refine the job, a motor driven rotary wire brush can be used to finish it off.

 

[jdmessner]

I have some skillets that have a good bit of build up, not rust, on the outsides. burn on grease I would guess. I just keep using them because the insides are nice.

I do not have a self cleaning oven. I had read where people just toss them in the fire pit with the hot coals to burn it off. Any other ideas?

I would agree with C. John. I didn't see a lot of benefit from using the self cleaning oven when it comes to rust. I tried it a few years ago and it worked OK, but that was more for baked on food stuff rather than rust. It didn't do much for the rust.

I have been having trouble posting pictures from my phone. Sorry for the previous double image. When the posting came out that way, I figured two pictures were better than none, which is what had been happening for several unsuccessful and frustrating attempts.

Getting ready to start the seasoning process with the first batch of pans. I will warm them in the oven (200* for an hour) before applying the flaxseed oil. I plan to cover the pans with oil, and wipe them as clean as I can. I have a new to me oven and I am not sure how high it will go. The pans will bake at either 450*or 500* for an hour and then cool down for two hours before pulling them out. The goal is to do six coats total. The first three will be Flaxseed oil only for a base and the last 3 (or more) will be with the beeswax and flaxseed oil mixture for the finish.

[pmillen]

I used to do mine in the gas grill on the deck because I didn't like the smell.

[Brushpopper]

I used to do mine in the gas grill on the deck because I didn't like the smell.

When I get our stuff cleaned up I was thinking of seasoning them in my pellet grill for the same reason.  I don't know if the wood smoke will affect the way the seasoning comes out.  I doubt I'll get permission to get a little gasser, but it's worth a try since they were both Bonnie's dad's.  Thankfully they are small.  The Dutch ovens I have are so big I don't know what I would soak them in.  It'd take five gallons or more of the Evapo-Rust for each of them.

Do y'all use a food grade flaxseed oil and if so where do you find it?  I've seen some in the vitamin and supplement area of the grocery store but never in the cooking oil area.

[Canadian John]

  This may help.
 
 The flaxseed oil must…
 Be made of 100% flaxseed: There should be no other flavors, additives, and especially no oils to prevent oxidation among the listed ingredients. (You want the oxidation in this case!) The only exception here is
 if the label includes the words “flaxseed particulate” or “lignans.” Those are still part of the flaxseed, so they’re fine and still count as pure flax oil.
 Require refrigeration, because it’s an omega-3 supplement and goes rancid quickly. If you buy a bottle of flax oil that doesn’t need to be refrigerated, you bought the wrong thing.
 Be organic, because “you don’t want to burn toxic chemicals into your cookware to leach out forever more,” Canter writes.
 Be unfiltered, although filtered is also probably fine: Canter doesn’t specify if the oil should be filtered or unfiltered. I’ve heard of people using both, and it worked fine. The bottle she links to in her post is
 unfiltered, so that’s what I went with as well.
 Be expensive: Well, it doesn’t have to be expensive, per se, but if you’re buying the right thing, it probably will be. Think around $17 or $20 for a 16-ounce bottle.
 Between it flaking off and the cost, I don't use it any more.. Some swear by it.

[Brushpopper]

That makes sense then.  Thanks John!

[jdmessner]

The first batch of pans are now finished with six layers of the base coating. For the most part I stuck with my original plan; warming the pans in the oven at 200*, applying the flaxseed oil and then wiping them clean with a cotton rag. Baked them at 500* for an hour and then left them to cool in the oven for another two hours before repeating the process. Each round the pans looked better and better. The Dutch Oven and deep frying pan turned out exceptionally nice.

I decided to wait and apply the beeswax finishing coats after the six base coats. I made the pucks with beeswax and flaxseed oil, a little under the 2:1 ratio as suggested in the original post. I used beeswax pellets and melted them in the microwave (at 20-30 second intervals), adding oil as they began to soften. I plan to apply the finishing coats by heating the pans on the stovetop rather than baking in the oven. Not sure how many coats I will do, guess I will play it by ear.

It seems like it has taken a long time to get to where I can start seasoning! Looking forward to seeing how they end up and also starting in on round two. The next batch of pans will include the muffin pan, the bean pot, lid, and another Dutch Oven.

I will post some pictures of the process after I get a coat or two of the beeswax mixture on the pans.

[Brushpopper]

The Evapo-Rust worked great on the smaller Dutch oven and lids.  I used a wire wheel and my grinder and got most of the rust off of everything first.  The gallon I got isn't enough for the bean pot though.  I may have to do half with it on its side then rinse and turn it 180 degrees.  The Dutch oven has some minor pitting, but I think it'll be fine to use as long as there is no rust in the bottom of the pits before seasoning. 

The electrolysis video Slaga posted is definitely the way to got for the bigger Dutch ovens that were my dad's that he used by in cow camps when working cattle.  My grandfather used them before my dad for the same thing.

I'll probably re-season everything the way they were done originally with good ol' lard.

[Canadian John]

 
 Good old lard if pure works well with the exception it will go rancid if the C I isn't used often. Heat and humidity accelerate it....   The old timers that used lard used their cast iron often, usually daily.

 If you have removed the rust and crud and don't intend to cook with it, mineral oil is easy to apply, maintain and looks good.  It is also cinch to clean if you deciede to season the piece later on.. Some of

 the C I collectors use mineral oil on their show pieces they don't cook on.

[Brushpopper]

 Good old lard if pure works well with the exception it will go rancid if the C I isn't used often. Heat and humidity accelerate it....   The old timers that used lard used their cast iron often, usually daily.

 If you have removed the rust and crud and don't intend to cook with it, mineral oil is easy to apply, maintain and looks good.  It is also cinch to clean if you deciede to season the piece later on.. Some of

 the C I collectors use mineral oil on their show pieces they don't cook on.

I didn't know that about mineral oil.  I ought to use that on the stuff of my dad's because they are all so big we'll probably never use them.  We'd have to be cooking for lots of folks.  I've never heard of anything going rancid after seasoning with lard, but as far as heat and humidity go that's two things we have no shortage of around here so that might be ruled out.  Bonnie would have a fit if she caught me doing that anyway.  Thanks Canadian John!

[Canadian John]

 You are welcome Brushpopper. A note on storing cast iron with lids. Prop the lid so there is a small gap allowing it to breath. A paint stick inserted under the lid works well. Just make sure it is long

enough so it doesn't fall down inside... Rice is another good one. Simply add ~ 1 to 2 cups inside to absorb moisture.  It must be replaced occasionally. The air gap needs to be used in conjunction with the rice.

[Bentley]

To much work.  I think I will stick with my aluminum and ceramic!

[Bar-B-Lew]

To much work.  I think I will stick with my aluminum and ceramic!

I agree, but the knowledge transfer going on in this thread is incredible information.

[Brushpopper]

I enjoy cooking with CI and a good project.  I agree with you Lew.  This has been an interesting thread and the information provided by Canadian John has been invaluable, as usual. 

[jdmessner]

The Evapo-Rust worked great on the smaller Dutch oven and lids.  I used a wire wheel and my grinder and got most of the rust off of everything first.  The gallon I got isn't enough for the bean pot though.  I may have to do half with it on its side then rinse and turn it 180 degrees.  The Dutch oven has some minor pitting, but I think it'll be fine to use as long as there is no rust in the bottom of the pits before seasoning. 

Several of the pans I am working on have some pitting, but I don't think it will be a problem. We soaked our bean pot in the Evapo-Rust half on one side and then the other and it worked out fine.

The first batch is done. I tested one of the small pans by flipping eggs. They flipped higher than I thought and came down on the burner instead of the pan!! I guess it passed the test!

End of baking process:
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Beeswax and flaxseed pucks.
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Final result after seasoning 3x with the puck:
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