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[Bentley]

So we want to put a concrete slab next to the shed so we can put the split wood on it and be able to scrape up the logs with the bucket of the tractor and bring up to the house and dump without picking up dirt and such.  So that is the jist of the project. 

After the small pad for the Spa, I am comfortable doing the forms and working the concrete.  What I am not good at is figuring out how to screed areas that are larger then say 12 feet.  That is about the length of 2 x 6 I feel comfortable using to screed.   So I will ask a few questions and hope we have some Members that have worked with concrete slabs and can help me.  Cuz we all know I aint paying for something I think I can do!

As of now it looks like it will go at the back of the shed.  The Shed is 18' wide and I am gonna come out appx 20'.  So about 4 yards of concrete.  But a span that is longer then 12'.  Pretty sure the truck will be able to get right up next to the shed, so it will be very easy for him to swing the boom to either side, but I think that it still needs to be screeded?  Is it usually poured in sections to accomplish this?  Obviously the finish is not really going to be of importance, as stated, this is just to keep the wood off the ground and be easier for the tractor bucket to pick it up!

Another thing I would like to do is have a back and sides on the slab.  The back so that I do not push the bucket into the metal shed and the sides just and an enclosure for the wood.  Suggestions on that?  Any idea how hard is it to make a form to pour a 4' wall with the slab?  Or would a cinder block filled with rebar and concrete be more stable?  The sides are not a huge factor as they are more containment, but the wall that will be up against the shed, it is what the wood will at some point will be pushed into and I would need it to take some force.  If I do a 4 ft. back and side wall, it will be appx 1440 sqft which would theoretically hold 11.25 cords, but since i will never beable to get them tight, i am think more like 7, which is about 1 season of fire wood.

Any suggestion will be appreciated.  I tried to do some drawings on Paint and it is funny, I can see it in my mind, but trying to do architectural views, just aint gonna happen, so I did this stick figure.

[Bentley]

Oh, and if you really want a challenge, will an 18' x 20', 4 inch reinforced concrete slab hold the weight of a 2800lb. tractor!

[02ebz06]

Not a concrete guy, but I do know there are different strengths of concrete.
Obviously, your foundation under the concrete needs to be solid.

For the screeding, couldn't you screw or bolt three 10' 2/4's together with a 3' overlap to give to 24' to do the screeding?
One person on each side.

[hughver]

The 2800 lb. tractor should not be a problem so long as the soil under the pad is firmly compacted. The wall is a different story, I believe that if a 4' wall is going to survive very much stress, it'll have to have at least a 12-14" footing of some sort with vertical rebar inserted. Walls are no fun, you might be able to rent the forms and retaining hardware. As for the slab, I'd section it off with treated 2X4's into sizes that you could handle. The 2X4's will also act as expansion joints to prevent or at least minimize cracking. BTW, when I was involved with concrete, we used concrete reinforced with fiberglass, I believe that there are two sizes of fiberglass strands are available. It cost a little more but saves having to use rebar.

[Bentley]

So can I embed the 1st row of cinder block directly on to the wet concrete and have vertical rebar imbedded in the pad aslo to strengthen the cinder block wall?  This project is going to require a lot of planning for me to not half     it !

[GREG-B]

I'm thinking a cinderblock retaining wall will probably not hold up to being pushed on with your bucket.  And it will come under some pushing if you're loading with a tractor.  This would hold up and you could push against them all day long. [ Invalid Attachment ]

[02ebz06]

I would think the cinder block of concrete wall could crack if hit with the tractor.

What about a simpler solution, just put tire stops on the slab so tractor can't hit shed?
Make them so that can be removed and not in the way when not using the tractor.

[Bentley]

The back wall will not have a lot of bucket pressure on it, you pretty much ease into it, you just need some resistance to get the wood to hold to scoop into the bucket.  Somewhat hard to explain if you have never never used a tractor bucket. 

My research needs to find out if the pad can also act as a footer for the cinder block or whatever solution will give the greatest strength.  I am going to try and place rebar every other block and fill with cement.  The stamped concrete slabs would be nice, but would need a form or have to be bought and I would still have the issue of securing to slab.  Been watching a lot of youtube videos on wall construction.

[SmokinHandyman]

I would not use cinder blocks
I would use concrete blocks, a lot stronger then fill the holes with mortar or cement as you build the wall.
I helped my dad when I was about 14 or so build horse showers at a horse stable.

That is what we used and the horses till this day never kicked through the wall.

[Bentley]

I guess I am old enough that I say cinder block when I mean cement.  I am looking at Cored Concrete Block.  I do not want to use a Standard Concrete Block because of the size difference and price difference.  Not sure they even sell cinder block anymore?

What I am also trying to learn...can I build the wall right on the concrete slab?  Will the slab act as the footer?  There are the things I know nothing about and you really can't find the info online or youtube, 100's of video on laying the block and leveling the block and this technique and that technique.  But nothing really specific to what I see in my mind!

[SmokinHandyman]

I think that I would dig a footing for your wall and pour it with your slab all the same time.

Another thought. Sounds like your wall does not need to be that strong. What about strong wood posts and treated 2x10's?

[Bentley]

Might work.  I guess I could do the slab 1st, save room for a footer for the wall, and try some other options 1st!

[GREG-B]

Another option when you pour your slab, make it a monolithic pour and imbed rebar in the monolithic section sticking straight up and mount your concrete blocks with the rebar inside the cavities and pour concrete inside your block cavities.

[Bentley]

Many good ideas that has me thinking and maybe able to lower overall cost thanks to all who have made suggestions!

Not sure what you mean by monolithic?  The concreate pad will definitely have vertical rebar along back wall and side walls to support the blocks and they will definitely have concrete poured in them if I go that route!  Probably no concrete in side walls!

The 8 x 8's with pressure threated 2 x 10's maybe another option for the back and side walls.  If I can learn how to incorporate about a 6 inch high back to the pad (like in a parking lot or a gutter) that is probably all I would need to "push" the wood into the bucket when we get down that low.  The Wood back and sides would then hold the wood pile in and would save a lot of money and much back pain!  Although the hot tub is here!

Another option when you pour your slab, make it a monolithic pour and imbed rebar in the monolithic section sticking straight up and mount your concrete blocks with the rebar inside the cavities and pour concrete inside your block cavities.

[hughver]

Method of creating 6" back wall. (Sorry for the amateurish drawing but its been years since I've even opened my cad program)